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Post by brianbutler on May 22, 2021 21:54:39 GMT
I used a couple of 5/8" rubber padded P-clamps and some stainless steel M5 screws, washers, and nuts to replace the miserable seat stay attachment bracket that comes with Plescher racks. This setup seems very robust and quiet, and it won't scratch the paint by shifting around. Note the paint in the photo was previously damaged by said bracket. The bike is the Viscount Sebring.
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Post by oldroadietehachapi on May 22, 2021 23:55:53 GMT
Great Idea! Has anyone polished one?
Jim
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Post by brianbutler on May 23, 2021 0:26:06 GMT
That would be pretty tough. The castings are crude. I have a lot of these. It seems every parts bike and freebie from the dump has one.
Brian
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Post by franco on May 23, 2021 9:25:28 GMT
Great Idea! Has anyone polished one? Jim I intended to but it was so tedious and awkward it ended up just being a thorough clean. Great idea Brian, good thread title too. Some old designs of how things used to attach to bikes don’t do the paintwork any favours and sieze up over time. Clamp on frame pump holders, clamp on cable stays, racks, kickstands... Suppose at the time most bikes were designed for utility purposes and functionality, not for us lot polishing them up forty years later. Always good to see a simple modification that improves something, be interested to hear your thoughts how it holds up to a camping trip. |
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Post by brianbutler on May 23, 2021 11:43:00 GMT
I think the clamps will hold up. I'd be more concerned with the rack handling much weight on rough pavement. These are made of cast aluminum and I had one that was broken when I got it. The break occurred in the cross bar shown in the photo so I suspect it had to do with overtightening the original clamp, which pushes the center of the bar and pulls the ends. The rubber clamp design does not stress the bar in that manner.
I'm looking for a plastic tub with waterproof lid that can be attached to the rack. I'll have to figure out a mounting bracket in lieu of bungee cords. I think it would be superior to most of the expensive trunk racks that are available. Maybe something like this:
Brian
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Post by brianbutler on May 23, 2021 12:09:48 GMT
Actually bungees are the best solution because they are cheap, versatile, and don't require any special brackets. I have a huge collection of bungees I have picked up along the roadside. And here is a better candidate for the trunk itself. Note the modular stacking capability.
Details:
Brian
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Post by brianbutler on Jun 21, 2021 23:24:42 GMT
I tried to repair a Plescher rack and it went bad, but not as bad as it could have. There was a rack in my scrap metal bin that I decided to repair by silver soldering. Here was the problem:
First I brushed some flux onto the broken surfaces and then clamped the workpiece:
Next I cut a length of silver solder and laid it on the crack. My idea was to heat the area surrounding the crack, especially from the opposite side, to flow the solder.
Everything was going fine until the temperature reached the melting point of aluminum, which evidently is lower than that of the solder. At that point the entire work area suddenly melted and collapsed, splashing molten metal onto the floor near my sandal-shod feet. You don't have to say anything, I already know!
I was lucky this time and have learned my lesson well.
Brian
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Post by wheelson on Jun 22, 2021 0:17:10 GMT
I tried to repair a Plescher rack and it went bad, but not as bad as it could have. There was a rack in my scrap metal bin that I decided to repair by silver soldering. Here was the problem:
First I brushed some flux onto the broken surfaces and then clamped the workpiece:
Next I cut a length of silver solder and laid it on the crack. My idea was to heat the area surrounding the crack, especially from the opposite side, to flow the solder.
Everything was going fine until the temperature reached the melting point of aluminum, which evidently is lower than that of the solder. At that point the entire work area suddenly melted and collapsed, splashing molten metal onto the floor near my sandal-shod feet. You don't have to say anything, I already know!
I was lucky this time and have learned my lesson well.
Brian
I won’t scold, honest. I have more than a few scar remnants of similar incidents. I do recall that some years ago there was an aluminum repair rod that could be used brazing/welding style for aluminum repair. It must have been back in my early bike/repair days of the ‘60s - ‘80s since the to-be-repaired item was an aluminum lawnmower deck. Mixed results. Check with HVAC suppliers. Best, John “wheelson” |
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Post by oldroadietehachapi on Jun 22, 2021 0:20:41 GMT
Who knows, This might be an opportunity to customize it into a new form. Something special with unusual features. Maybe a camera mount, lunch box, machine gun mount. Okay, maybe not the machine gun mount. Oh yes, a mount for a small jet engine!
Ride Happy
Jim
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rodh
Viscount
Posts: 122
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Post by rodh on Jun 26, 2021 16:32:41 GMT
I've tried low temperature welding to repair aluminium with mixed results. Getting rid of impurities, microscopic dirt, oxides etc. seems to be the crucial difference between success and failure.
The instructions with the kit I used advocated scrubbing with a stainless steel wire brush, but no matter what I did it never really worked.
Recently I've been tempted to try again with a product called HTS2000.
Am I mad, am I stupid to try again, or is this stuff any good? ... time will tell ... but I like the idea of strapping a jet on there (cf Youtube!).
Best,
Rod
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