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Ebike
Jan 5, 2021 2:02:10 GMT
Post by oldroadietehachapi on Jan 5, 2021 2:02:10 GMT
Are any of you familiar with ebike conversions; or do you happen to own an e bike? Just curious, I am considering the conversion of one of my road frames as a cheap ride to town. I am not even sure if one will be able to haul me both ways. It is 30 miles to town and back with about 2500 feet of climbing, plus add in some wind. Do they recharge on descents? How long does it take to charge one? How much do they weigh?
Ride Happy Jim
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Ebike
Jan 5, 2021 14:23:23 GMT
Post by wheelson on Jan 5, 2021 14:23:23 GMT
Jim, I don't own an e-bike (but do foresee one in my future!), but the shop I contract with is very much involved with new e-bike sales, conversions, and "re-conversions". We're a Cannondale dealer and have sold a fair number of new bikes, both road and "adventure"(semi-hybrid). We've also built up a number of e-bikes purchased online and then brought/delivered to our shop.
As to conversions, they come in front wheel, rear wheel, and mid motor drives. As far as ease of installation, I think front wheel drive is it. Basically, remove the old wheel, replace with the motorized wheel, install battery of bike frame (usually downtube), add the controls and you're there. We've done quite a few of these over the past 2 or 3 years, especially to 26 inch wheeled bikes with those extended step-thru frames. Rear drive is more difficult since the replacement wheel is more critical because of frame spacing, gearing, and so forth. Battery is usually mounted on a dedicated rear rack. Mid-drive is a whole different ball game of complexity and personally would not be my choice.
Keep in mind that most electric retrofits are intended to be pedal aided so depending on how much flat riding is involved would certainly have an effect on charge life. As far as I know, none of the kits we've used will recharge on descents.
I did mention "re-conversions". Our shop has had the "opportunity" to re-retrofit several bikes that were failed attempts by either the individual owner or another bike shop, as well as new bikes that just didn't work out of the gate. One job that comes to mind last year was a fat bike trike. It was not only huge in size but a huge investment by the owner, shipped to another bike shop, failed assembly, brought to our shop, and a complete new electric/electronic system involved. Key here was that there was NO documentation or support available from the manufacturer. I foresee this as the big issue with both new e-bikes and conversions. Right now there is a huge rush to market and a huge lack of documentation, support, or training programs offered to the shops.
The shop owner likes to do these builds/retrofits and I generally assist/learn when I'm at the shop part-time. I'm pretty much out of there until late February or early March, but I'll try to get you some information on the companies we deal with and what specs are available.
Best, John "wheelson"
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Ebike
Jan 5, 2021 14:50:05 GMT
Post by oldroadietehachapi on Jan 5, 2021 14:50:05 GMT
Hi John! You have (as always) great input. I came across this website How to Convert a Road Bike to an Electric Bike Which seems to reflect what I have in mind. I like the mid-drive concept the best as it seems to suit road frames. The only ebikes I have seen are upright hybrid like. To me they seem a bike for people who do not like bikes. I like bikes and do think ebikes like these are brilliant; but absurdly expensive. We have a guy in San Francisco selling nice Stumpjumper conversions. I suppose the $1500 cost of the conversion parts plus a Stumpjumper, make it a reasonable price. The cost of conversions (especially the battery) may prevent me from doing this at all. A lot of research is needed.
Ride happy Jim
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Ebike
Jan 5, 2021 15:54:56 GMT
Post by wheelson on Jan 5, 2021 15:54:56 GMT
Jim, That cost of $1500 for a conversion may not be too bad. We usually quote approximately $1K, although our labor rates here in Western PA are way less than San Francisco. I agree that a mid-drive may be best for a road bike if you are making it a dedicated conversion. Mids are a bit tricky with respect to clearance, chain lines, and sensor pickups. I think the reasons we do so many front and rear conversions here is because our customers are primarily rail trail riders with hybrid, comfort, or mtb bikes. Also, we do a lot of conversions for older riders, many with physical situations. Most but not all of our road e-bikes are new Cannondales to mainly older club roadies seeking to maintain their ever decreasing ability (ask me how I know!).
I think with your mechanical abilities and shop equipment you'd have no problem with the mid conversion. Like you say, a lot of research is needed. My best advice is to pick a supplier who can give you support and can supply replacement parts such as sensors and electronic controllers.
Best, John "wheelson"
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Ebike
Jan 5, 2021 21:36:21 GMT
Post by wheelson on Jan 5, 2021 21:36:21 GMT
Jim, I stopped by the shop a while ago and the owner happened to be there (surprising number of repairs/tuneups for this time of year - 34*F and blowing snow). Our supplier for mid drive is Dillenger, BBS01. He also reminded me that the primary new road e-bike with mid drive we sell is a Norco. Best, John "wheelson"
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Ebike
Jan 5, 2021 21:37:33 GMT
Post by wheelson on Jan 5, 2021 21:37:33 GMT
That's 34 degrees F, not -34 as I made it look. J "w"
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Ebike
Jan 5, 2021 21:44:51 GMT
Post by oldroadietehachapi on Jan 5, 2021 21:44:51 GMT
That's 34 degrees F, not -34 as I made it look. J "w" Whew!
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ks1u
Viscount
Posts: 76
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Post by ks1u on Jan 6, 2021 16:09:24 GMT
Jim: Last year my winter project was to build an electric skateboard, so I could have some fun and learn about these new electric designs. I'm sure there are battery options available that will enable your round trip. My skateboard has a top speed of over 50mph (not that I'll ever see that) and a range over 40 miles, although not at top speed. Whether it's a TESLA, an E-Bike or an ESK8, they all use those 18650 or similar lithium cells. You can choose the cell for maximum discharge rate (top speed) or capacity (long-range). I ordered my battery cells directly from China, and assembled them into the configuration I wanted. When looking at the battery pack you'll see labels like 12S 6P, which is what mine are. The S is for the number of 4.2 volt cells in series and the P is for the number in parallel. They can be anywhere from 8S to 12S for E-Bikes , but the P rating is what you need for that long commute. BTW, 12 S is 12 x 4.2 or 50.4 volts for a full charge. You can extend the life of these batteries by several times by charging them to about 85% to 90% capacity. For the capacity in ma (milliamps) look for 3500 to 4000 ma in each cell for long commutes. 6P would be 6 x say, 4000ma or 24 amps of capacity which would be great. Here's a FLIKR link to a couple photos of my ESK8: www.flickr.com/photos/190494906@N04/albums/72157717754919143
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Ebike
Jan 6, 2021 20:06:44 GMT
ks1u likes this
Post by oldroadietehachapi on Jan 6, 2021 20:06:44 GMT
Jim: Last year my winter project was to build an electric skateboard, so I could have some fun and learn about these new electric designs. I'm sure there are battery options available that will enable your round trip. My skateboard has a top speed of over 50mph It makes my heart glad to know that you (like so many of my friends) are completely nuts :-)
That's Fantastic Jim
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