rodh
Viscount
Posts: 122
|
Post by rodh on Nov 27, 2020 5:03:00 GMT
I've just bought a pair of Lambert hub'd wheels, and after a mild cleanup I can
see one turn of tape on each hub sporting red/blue/black/yellow/green stripes.
Is there anything significant about this? Olympic aspirations? Campy overtones?
Also, is it safe to assume these 1975 Lambert hubs will probably be the same as
the 1978+ Viscount hubs (which I have sealed bearings for)?
Next task will be to get the 45 year old cassette off! You may see me back shortly!
Thanks,
Rod
|
|
|
|
Post by brianbutler on Nov 27, 2020 13:45:00 GMT
To remove the freewheel, assuming the wheel is still intact (i.e. hub is spoked to a rim), this procedure almost always works:
Make sure you have the correct removal tool.
Clamp it to the freewheel with a quick release.
Mount the tool in a vise.
Rotate the wheel counterclockwise.
I have found that anything else might not work. For example, trying to turn the tool with a handheld wrench often does not work.
Brian
|
|
|
|
Post by franco on Nov 27, 2020 16:52:07 GMT
I think I’ve been lucky, other than the Regina freewheel I’ve removed quite a few with just a wrench and removal tool without any problems.
That cheap one I bought new was a bit of a pain even though I put plenty of grease on the threads when I fitted it earlier this year, but it came off in the end.
Rod, if you are unsure which remover you need post a picture up.
|
|
rodh
Viscount
Posts: 122
|
Post by rodh on Nov 27, 2020 17:03:57 GMT
Absolutely right Brian (though I also pre-soak with kroil or similar on tbe hubside).
I think the key is to distribute the load on the tool (avoid slipping with the QR)
and to apply torque rather than just a moment. For a bolt, I give a sharp tap with
a hammer before I start, but for a freewheel you just can't get to the right place.
For really tricky parts (siezed pedals for instance), I put on a mild springy load,
eg, a G-clamp, from spanner to crank ... and then heat cycle ... -20, +80, etc.
Not much stays together through that, but it's a patience game and can take days.
... and my last tip: almost everything that comes off goes back with copper grease!
HTH,
Rod
PS. any thoughts on the hubs?
PPS ... TL-FW30 in hand ... it's a standard Shimano 5 speed, twisted teeth ...
|
|
|
|
Post by brianbutler on Nov 27, 2020 23:17:06 GMT
Rod, sorry I misunderstood your post. Obviously you know how to remove things. I thought you were asking how to do it and I was already on that wavelength because I had just removed an old Suntour Perfect 5 this morning. I haven't encountered a severely stuck pedal yet. I'll try your technique if I do. Totally agree about the copper grease, plus what a great smell it has - reminds me of an automotive machine shop I used to frequent. And it is always nice to take apart an old bike and actually find copper grease!
Regarding the hubs - I have a pair of 1972-ish Lambert hubs from a Gen 1 Aerospace Pro. They do not have the stripes you mentioned. Can't say whether they ever did. The bearings are the same as on later Viscount hubs - 629 front and 6000 rear.
Brian
|
|
|
|
Post by franco on Nov 27, 2020 23:59:53 GMT
I misread it too after a few battles with freewheels, apologies Rod.  |
|
|
|
Post by oldroadietehachapi on Nov 28, 2020 16:51:12 GMT
I've just bought a pair of Lambert hub'd wheels, and after a mild cleanup I can see one turn of tape on each hub sporting red/blue/black/yellow/green stripes. Sounds like World Champion rainbow colors. Perhaps a reference to Reg Harris,
|
|
rodh
Viscount
Posts: 122
|
Post by rodh on Nov 29, 2020 22:11:02 GMT
I think you're right there ... I've now found some "World Champion" decals on the bay.
Curiously similar to some Campy packaging stripes ...
OK, so they're coming off, to show the true Lambert shine underneath!
Another quick question ... any difference between Lambert hubs and Viscount ones?
They look identical as far as my caliper gauge can tell (bar the engraving of course).
Thanks,
Rod
|
|
|
|
Post by brianbutler on Nov 30, 2020 0:40:27 GMT
I know the bearings are the same whether Viscount or Lambert - 629 bearings on the front hub and 6000 bearings on the rear hub.
Brian
|
|
rodh
Viscount
Posts: 122
|
Post by rodh on Nov 30, 2020 0:51:34 GMT
Yup .. good info Brian.
These wheels came with Fag bearings on the front (dragging, so probably the grease has dried or oxidised), and Koyo on tbe rear (totally loose and gritty). I figured I'd do them all for a fresh start and some known lineage ... Probably NTN's if I can find a good price.
Deliberating over standard (CN) or wider (C3) clearance right now, and standard (LLU) or lightly sealed (LLB) ...
I reckon the LLU CN is the best bet for the vertical loading of wheels (might use C3 for the BB where twisting loads are more severe).
NTN say the light contact LLB seals have half the friction of LLU, but don't withstand as much pressure (hosing down?) so I plan to use the LLU type ...
The saved friction would be imperceptable to me, especially when the seals "lift" (above ~60 RPM) and then exert very little drag.
On the other side of this decision, the tighter static seal of the LLU matters to me, because that keeps the water out and grease in.
Anyone with detailed bearing knowledge wish to comment?
Thanks,
Rod
|
|
rodh
Viscount
Posts: 122
|
Post by rodh on Nov 30, 2020 19:03:05 GMT
Update - the Fag bearings are shot too!
At one particular angle they shudder periodically ...
Not to worry, no love lost there!
|
|
rodh
Viscount
Posts: 122
|
Post by rodh on Jan 17, 2021 22:25:37 GMT
|
|
rodh
Viscount
Posts: 122
|
Post by rodh on Jan 18, 2021 13:01:09 GMT
I checked with the seller ... it looks like they came with 27" Ava Saphir rims (tubs) ... anyone have those too?
|
|
