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Post by franco on Nov 14, 2020 12:12:50 GMT
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vfrman
Viscount
hi-13 lamberts[2 gold, 1 reg harris] 3 10 speeds
Posts: 33 
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Post by vfrman on Nov 14, 2020 22:30:52 GMT
btw; i see this lambert has at least the top post of a bike pump holder...does anyone know if any lamberts or viscounts came with them originally?..[but then where would you carry the little hose that connects from the pump to the tire valve?]...and then these pumps werent or arnt capable of inflating a tire up to 80 or 90 psi anyway?...just ruminating...?
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Jem
Viscount
?
Posts: 3,418
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Post by Jem on Nov 14, 2020 23:07:39 GMT
btw; i see this lambert has at least the top post of a bike pump holder...does anyone know if any lamberts or viscounts came with them originally?..[but then where would you carry the little hose that connects from the pump to the tire valve?]...and then these pumps werent or arnt capable of inflating a tire up to 80 or 90 psi anyway?...just ruminating...? The pumps in the UK at the time had a neat way of the valve adaptor fitting inside the handle of the pump, snug and safe. These pumps were ok up, and pretty much all we ever had. I guess the were good up to 75psi or so, but not sure how I'd know as we never had any tyre pressure gauges in my circle of friends. We just kept pumping and then squeezed tyre until we couldn't press it in at all When I was younger I saw a teenager take a bike to the local garage to use the pressurised pump , and it went bang- so that put me off. I don't know if the pump holder came with them originally ps Coventry is quite a hot spot these days!? |
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Post by dracco on Nov 15, 2020 18:12:39 GMT
"We just kept pumping and then squeezed tyre until we couldn't press it in at all"
- I have to confess that I still do this.
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Post by franco on Nov 15, 2020 20:43:43 GMT
I’ve got a pump with a pressure gauge but to be honest I’ve found my rides more comfortable if I don’t run the tyres at the full recommended pressure.
That’s probably more to do with the state of the road surfaces around here than anything else.
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Post by lighthousejim on Nov 15, 2020 21:38:59 GMT
Mrs LHJ's AX18 has a brazed on top peg for a pump. My similar vintage Claud Butler came with a Zefal pump that 'wedges' between the top tube and the bottom bracket angle. I was able to get a similar pump to fit the AX18, which also makes use of the bottom bracket angle to locate it. Neither pump has an adaptor hose, you simply clamp them onto the valve with your hand around the tyre. I've very rarely used a gauge on bicycle tyres. The 'can't squeeze it' technique has lasted me forty odd years without drama.
Jim
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Post by franco on Nov 15, 2020 22:43:15 GMT
Trusting instinct and experience should always be enough. For example, how many people use a torque wrench setting up a bicycle? Not many is my guess. I certainly don’t own one and couldn’t tell you what Newton measurement I applied on a square taper crankset.
I think cycling can get unnecessarily complicated at times and it can kill the joy and simplicity of it.
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Post by dracco on Nov 16, 2020 9:56:14 GMT
I blame the "marginal gains" philosophy. This may be fine for professional and elite cyclists, but I always think it's a bit sad when I come across online discussions about whether lowering tyre pressuresreally reduces rolling resistance or not, and recreational cyclists getting really worked up about whether they should increase or decrease tyre pressure by a couple of psi. (And this kind of discussion is happening on forums not dedicated to cycling!!)
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Post by franco on Nov 16, 2020 14:28:48 GMT
I blame the "marginal gains" philosophy. This may be fine for professional and elite cyclists, but I always think it's a bit sad when I come across online discussions about whether lowering tyre pressuresreally reduces rolling resistance or not, and recreational cyclists getting really worked up about whether they should increase or decrease tyre pressure by a couple of psi. (And this kind of discussion is happening on forums not dedicated to cycling!!) It seems a lot of things must have an end gain these days. Been asked questions myself like “what are you training for” and “do you post your Strava routes up on facebook”? Then when I reply I’m not training and don’t use Strava I get a puzzled look like what’s the point then. |
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Post by brianbutler on Nov 16, 2020 15:29:00 GMT
Marginal gains are completely at odds with finding, fixing and riding $50 vintage steel bikes. Good enough is the arch enemy of better. Besides, the best thing I could do to improve my "performance" would be to improve my strength to weight ratio - alas, that's too hard.
Brian
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Post by wheelson on Nov 16, 2020 22:37:48 GMT
Trusting instinct and experience should always be enough. For example, how many people use a torque wrench setting up a bicycle? Not many is my guess. I certainly don’t own one and couldn’t tell you what Newton measurement I applied on a square taper crankset. I think cycling can get unnecessarily complicated at times and it can kill the joy and simplicity of it. I own several torque wrenches and have access to several more at the bike shop I contract with. I almost never use one on my personal bikes, more often at the shop where torque values are imprinted on many modern bike components. For me, this is primarily a liability issue. Same holds true for spoke tension meters. Of note, thinking back on the instrumentation requirements of my 30 year engineering career, any gauge is only as good as it’s last certification. Best, John “wheelson” |
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Post by brianbutler on Nov 17, 2020 3:40:04 GMT
The big problem with torque wrenches is that torque is only a proxy for bolt tightness, which is really a function of bolt stretch. Torque is dependent on friction, which in turn depends on thread finish and lubrication. I once snapped a cylinder head bolt way before it reached the proper torque because I lubricated the bolt before tightening.
A strain gauge actually measures bolt stretch but is usually impractical to use. There is a company, probably more than one, that makes bolts with built in strain indicators.
When asked how much you should tighten a banjo head, Earl Scruggs said "I usually tighten it until it breaks and then back it off a little."
Brian
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Post by oldroadietehachapi on Nov 17, 2020 6:02:21 GMT
I worked my way through college (mostly) as a car mechanic. In a seminar by Loctite, I was taught that torque calculations based on bolt size and type were measured with a dry thread. I was also taught never to install a dry bolt if I wanted to be able to remove it some time in the future. Loctite gave us a little chart with a wet and dry torque setting for common bolt types. I also was taught that torque settings in car manuals usually referred to wet torque, unless otherwise noted. We installed studs, and critical bolts and nuts with Loctite, so they were wet. Using a dry torque on a wet bolt, or having liquid oil in the bottom of a bolt hole, are excellent ways to break a bolt. With excess oil the liquid will not compress, the bolt will not seat, and feels spongy with a high torque load. I have no idea if bike settings are wet or dry. I usually don't use a torque wrench for common tasks on bikes. Some threadless brackets, and the new fancy bottom brackets call for a torque setting which I adhere to. On threadless headsets and carbon bikes I do use a little compact torque tool with (the often called for) 5Nm fixed setting.
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Post by wheelson on Nov 17, 2020 12:17:22 GMT
The big problem with torque wrenches is that torque is only a proxy for bolt tightness, which is really a function of bolt stretch. Torque is dependent on friction, which in turn depends on thread finish and lubrication. I once snapped a cylinder head bolt way before it reached the proper torque because I lubricated the bolt before tightening. A strain gauge actually measures bolt stretch but is usually impractical to use. There is a company, probably more than one, that makes bolts with built in strain indicators. When asked how much you should tighten a banjo head, Earl Scruggs said "I usually tighten it until it breaks and then back it off a little." Brian Same here with snapping the head bolt in an engine block. To add insult to injury, I then snapped an easy out in the broken head bolt. Thankfully 292ci Ford blocks were a “dime a dozen” THEN. The strain gage reference brings back memories as well - that of lying in the bed of a gigantic lathe somewhere in a Canadian customer’s manufacturing with coolant dripping in my eyes trying (successfully!) to lay strain gages on the underneath of a $25,000 solid carbide boring bar. Today, torque wrenches are useful for modern stems, brake disks, and such in the 5-10 NM range. Best, John “wheelson” |
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Post by triitout on Nov 17, 2020 19:37:06 GMT
As a complete amateur bike mechanic, I've always gotten away with tightening by feel on the old Viscounts. That didn't work so well on my two "modern" bikes when tightening bolts in the 5-10 nm range. I agree 100% with John that the torque wrench for those bolts is essential. Before I got a bike torque wrench, I actually with my brute strength, haha, snapped a few of those 5-10nm bolts when tightening. You guys would love working with my tiny dental implant torque wrenches for tiny screws in the 25-35 ncm range especially when working in the back of the mouth while wrestling with an overactive tongue and cheek muscles!
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Post by brianbutler on Nov 17, 2020 19:53:07 GMT
As a complete amateur bike mechanic, I've always gotten away with tightening by feel on the old Viscounts. That didn't work so well on my two "modern" bikes when tightening bolts in the 5-10 nm range. I agree 100% with John that the torque wrench for those bolts is essential. Before I got a bike torque wrench, I actually with my brute strength, haha, snapped a few of those 5-10nm bolts when tightening. You guys would love working with my tiny dental implant torque wrenches for tiny screws in the 25-35 ncm range especially when working in the back of the mouth while wrestling with an overactive tongue and cheek muscles! I have been on the receiving end of those little dental torque wrenches. I thought it was interesting that my dentist used a "click" wrench to get 80% of the way to proper torque but then used a torsion bar type to finish it up - said he worried about not hearing/feeling the click.
Brian
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Post by dracco on Nov 17, 2020 23:20:21 GMT
"That didn't work so well on my two "modern" bikes when tightening bolts in the 5-10 nm range."
That threw me for a minute. To me 10nm = 10 nanometres (Whereas 10Nm = 10 Newton-metres). I knew modern bikes could be a bit fiddly, but really?
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Post by brianbutler on Nov 18, 2020 1:55:06 GMT
"That didn't work so well on my two "modern" bikes when tightening bolts in the 5-10 nm range." That threw me for a minute. To me 10nm = 10 nanometres (Whereas 10Nm = 10 Newton-metres). I knew modern bikes could be a bit fiddly, but really? Wow, talk about tiny torque wrenches, maybe for screwing atoms into molecules. |
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Post by franco on Dec 31, 2020 23:03:40 GMT
This dude isn’t moving on his asking price, been watching it for ages.
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ks1u
Viscount
Posts: 76
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Post by ks1u on Jan 1, 2021 22:23:00 GMT
As an aside to the main topic here, whenever I see some cities listed in Great Britain,I get excited because many of the towns and cities here in CT have identical names. Coventry, CT is only 35 miles from me. The Coventry where this bike is located is a long boat ride away.
George
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Post by guybagnall on Jan 2, 2021 11:37:00 GMT
I'm new to Lamberts - does the ebay one look like it has mainly Lambert parts, or is it a later one? Do the early ones all have 3 front cogs - this one has two?
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