Jem
Viscount
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Posts: 3,418
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Post by Jem on Jul 30, 2020 14:58:59 GMT
Just went for a ride. First impressions are It’s a very good bike regardless of year or make n model . A really firm, solid ride. Gear changing is very good and reliable & it sounds exactly likes you’d expect. I know it’s essentially ‘just’ an Aerospace with some fancy bits on, but it felt a little different to my other one. The very slightly longer reach Milremo bar stem might be a factor , but the seat post mechanism is very adjustable , so I’ve got lots of options for finding the sweet spot.
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Post by franco on Jul 30, 2020 15:49:21 GMT
Very nice. What do you plan to do about the spokes Jem, clean up, swap, ride-as-is?
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Jem
Viscount
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Posts: 3,418
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Post by Jem on Jul 30, 2020 17:15:46 GMT
Very nice. What do you plan to do about the spokes Jem, clean up, swap, ride-as-is? I haven't quite made my mind up yet. Part of me thinks if I wait for black Dura-Ace hubs , then that could be another 5 years. Then the other option , to go to the expense of getting them re-built (because there's no way on earth I'm going to teach myself how to re-spoke and tension etc), would seem an extravagant spend. But, I do have HF Shimano wheel sets that I could put on, and then sell the Campag hubs to offset the sale. But, these are rolling very smoothly on there. Or I have the interim solution which is go out and buy a roll of tin foil, or eat a couple of dozen Kit-Kats and get my elbow into action EDIT- Just looking at the spec sheet for this , there's no way I am going to 14/15/16/17/18 sprockit that the original had! I might ride as it is this summer, then in the autumn, add some black cloth tape to the bars and shellac them. Have a go at polishing the spokes (my least favourite job on fettling a bike), and keep my eyes out for a pair of black DA hubs and sell the Campag top offset them. Not sure whether to go gumwall or all black like I have on the rear my semi-supabike here Viscount Aerospace Supabike by
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Post by dracco on Jul 30, 2020 17:58:37 GMT
Rubbing down spokes isn't my favourite job either.
2% (wt/volume)citric acid is a very good de-rusting agent: probably more effective than the aluminium foil method. Quite large bags of citric acid are available quite cheaply online. It's a weak acid and it'll also get most of those rust marks off the frame. Try soaking some green nylon scouring pad (Scotch-Brite) in this for the spokes, and for the frame just wrap the rusted parts in a kitchen towel soaked with citric acid and held in place with clingfilm.
The other thing that takes some of the pain out of rubbing down spokes is to hold your abrasive (Scotch-Brit..... or fine steel wool - no acid needed) around the spoke in a clothes peg. It's easier to then rub the spoke up and down by keeping a hold of the peg(and avoid the occupational hazard of getting bits of steel wool embedded in your fingertips). The difficult bit is where the spokes cross over.
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Jem
Viscount
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Posts: 3,418
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Post by Jem on Jul 30, 2020 18:20:26 GMT
Rubbing down spokes isn't my favourite job either. 2% (wt/volume)citric acid is a very good de-rusting agent: probably more effective than the aluminium foil method. Quite large bags of citric acid are available quite cheaply online. It's a weak acid and it'll also get most of those rust marks off the frame. Try soaking some green nylon scouring pad (Scotch-Brite) in this for the spokes, and for the frame just wrap the rusted parts in a kitchen towel soaked with citric acid and held in place with clingfilm. The other thing that takes some of the pain out of rubbing down spokes is to hold your abrasive (Scotch-Brit..... or fine steel wool - no acid needed) around the spoke in a clothes peg. It's easier to then rub the spoke up and down by keeping a hold of the peg(and avoid the occupational hazard of getting bits of steel wool embedded in your fingertips). The difficult bit is where the spokes cross over. Going to try all those tips Dracco, very good, thanks, much appreciated. I used Scotch-Brite a while back on spokes, and it was the dark red one. Is that just a different colour or is it a different course-ness to the green ones? Would you recommend green or both the same ?
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Post by franco on Jul 30, 2020 18:44:59 GMT
Very nice. What do you plan to do about the spokes Jem, clean up, swap, ride-as-is? I haven't quite made my mind up yet. Part of me thinks if I wait for black Dura-Ace hubs , then that could be another 5 years. Then the other option , to go to the expense of getting them re-built (because there's no way on earth I'm going to teach myself how to re-spoke and tension etc), would seem an extravagant spend. But, I do have HF Shimano wheel sets that I could put on, and then sell the Campag hubs to offset the sale. But, these are rolling very smoothly on there. Or I have the interim solution which is go out and buy a roll of tin foil, or eat a couple of dozen Kit-Kats and get my elbow into action EDIT- Just looking at the spec sheet for this , there's no way I am going to 14/15/16/17/18 sprockit that the original had! I might ride as it is this summer, then in the autumn, add some black cloth tape to the bars and shellac them. Have a go at polishing the spokes (my least favourite job on fettling a bike), and keep my eyes out for a pair of black DA hubs and sell the Campag top offset them. Not sure whether to go gumwall or all black like I have on the rear my semi-supabike here Viscount Aerospace Supabike by
Like dracco said, I also find rubbing down spokes a tedious job, I’ve done loads through lockdown with all the old bikes I bought and sold. Tried a dremmel fitted with a brass brush, wire wool, wire wool and penetrating fluid, scotchbrite pad... The dremmel method was the quickest and brass is soft metal so shouldn’t damage the steel spoke in theory. Most came up acceptable. Oddly enough I’ve got some high flange wheels and those spokes aren’t great either. Same dilemma as you, rebuilding them is out of my depth and getting them done professionally would probably cost more than they are worth. I can’t get on with black tyres on vintage racing bikes. Had some fitted on the 400 model and had to take them off and put gum wall on, it’s a compromise with puncture protection though. I quite like white wall tyres as well and might eventually try them on one of the Viscounts. Looks great though mate, I’m pleased you got it and they didn’t break it down.
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Post by franco on Jul 30, 2020 19:15:09 GMT
Forgot to mention these, a quid from Wilkos, great for cleaning up metal parts including spokes.
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Post by lighthousejim on Jul 30, 2020 20:37:44 GMT
Rebuilding wheels is not that bad if you take your time and follow the instructions on Sheldon Brown's website. As long as the rim is pretty good to start with, you should be able to go from a bare hub to a fully built wheel in a couple of evenings. Probably quicker and more effective than polishing spokes. Use a set of forks or the bike frame itself as a truing stand. If you're using the original hub and rim combination, measuring the spoke lengths should get the 'dish' on the rear correct as well. Building to spec or using a mix of components is a different kettle of fish, requiring spoke lengths to be calculated, but it's extremely satisfying once done.
Jim
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Jem
Viscount
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Posts: 3,418
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Post by Jem on Jul 30, 2020 21:27:49 GMT
Rebuilding wheels is not that bad if you take your time and follow the instructions on Sheldon Brown's website. As long as the rim is pretty good to start with, you should be able to go from a bare hub to a fully built wheel in a couple of evenings. Probably quicker and more effective than polishing spokes. Use a set of forks or the bike frame itself as a truing stand. If you're using the original hub and rim combination, measuring the spoke lengths should get the 'dish' on the rear correct as well. Building to spec or using a mix of components is a different kettle of fish, requiring spoke lengths to be calculated, but it's extremely satisfying once done. Jim Thanks for the encouragement and tips Jim.
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Post by wheelson on Jul 31, 2020 4:03:50 GMT
My blue unknown model Viscount had the original bb which I left more or less intact with the original model sealed bearings and a bb axle from a modern sealed unit that I documented in an earlier post as "Bottom Bracket Hack" or something like that.
For my silver/black Viscount Aerospace, I tapped it out to Italian threads and used a titanium bb cups and axle I found on eBay from a Canadian seller. Those were supposedly Russian made.
For my chrome pseudo-Supa, which has the original non-tapered bb axle, I will probably repeat the BB Hack in order to fit the black Dura Ace crankset.
The pseudo-Supa (brushed chrome but with Viscount rear dropouts, no water bottle braze-ons, and no separate seat mast clamp) has a serial number of 011214 <K so who knows what model this actually is. Since it's brushed chrome and came with a black Viscount headset and black Viscount hubs that were originally built to sewup rims, I'm calling it a pseudo-Supa or the black sheep of the Supa family!
Best, John "wheelson"
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Post by wheelson on Jul 31, 2020 4:23:20 GMT
Rebuilding wheels is not that bad if you take your time and follow the instructions on Sheldon Brown's website. As long as the rim is pretty good to start with, you should be able to go from a bare hub to a fully built wheel in a couple of evenings. Probably quicker and more effective than polishing spokes. Use a set of forks or the bike frame itself as a truing stand. If you're using the original hub and rim combination, measuring the spoke lengths should get the 'dish' on the rear correct as well. Building to spec or using a mix of components is a different kettle of fish, requiring spoke lengths to be calculated, but it's extremely satisfying once done. Jim Very good tips from LHJim. There's quite a bit of good info online.
If I can do anything to assist anyone in your wheel building efforts, please ask. I'm in Western Pennsylvania USA, but I have Sutherlands 4th Ed., Jobst Brant's "The Bicycle Wheel", and 50+ years of wheel building experience - about 16 years of that in bike shops as well as Schwinn Bicycle Co factory school. Contact me here on the list or at wheelson2011 AT gmail DOT com and I'm always glad to help with this or any other bike problems - payback for all the help and friendship I've found here on this list.
Best, John "wheelson"
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Jem
Viscount
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Posts: 3,418
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Post by Jem on Jul 31, 2020 20:32:12 GMT
John - many thanks for that offer, very kind of you. Jem
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Jem
Viscount
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Posts: 3,418
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Post by Jem on Aug 2, 2020 9:09:47 GMT
The seller found the original saddle that was on it - By the looks of it, it didn't see many miles (or the rider lived in the hills and stood up on the pedals most of the way?) Screenshot 2020-08-02 at 10.07.53 by
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Jem
Viscount
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Posts: 3,418
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Post by Jem on Aug 2, 2020 16:38:34 GMT
One last thing about this bike that I forgot to mention. It came with what I think might have been the original pump. Milremo which the bar stem and saddle are too And the silver and black finish are very much in keeping with it. If the saddle has seen so little action, and the original pump is still with it, then my thoughts are that the hubs/wheels that aren't part of the original spec of the bike, were still most likely on it from new. Just a hunch, but that's my take on it IMG_3864 by IMG_3862 by
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Post by cusqueno on Aug 3, 2020 8:34:16 GMT
Nice pump. Do you think it’s a re-branded Silca?
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Jem
Viscount
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Posts: 3,418
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Post by Jem on Aug 3, 2020 11:16:01 GMT
Nice pump. Do you think it’s a re-branded Silca? It looks identical doesn't it?
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Post by whippet on Aug 8, 2020 20:49:08 GMT
Great that this bike has ended up in your hands Jem.
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Jem
Viscount
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Posts: 3,418
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Post by Jem on Aug 9, 2020 6:57:06 GMT
Thanks Kev, and as you can imagine, it was quite a negotiation , because I am really not one for spending a lot of money on my bikes. So, it was the best haggling I'd done since I was last in Marrakesh in the street markets.
So, lot's of back and forth. At one point I had the image of a heartless bike dealer Svengali type looking at it, with eyes on parting it out and selling all the Dura-Ace and then throwing the frame away because 'it wasn't even painted!'
In the end, the seller said she was holding it for me because she knew I would look after it and was a bike person( she'd had a higher offer the day I went up). I sent her the link to this forum and told her that there's lot's of love for Viscount and that we needed to keep it complete. But it still made me laugh when I drove up to Sheffield to get it , that she casually said "yeah.you will probably take those decals off straight away then?" She also said, 'the original saddle is some horrible ratty looking thing, you really don't want it!?'. She couldn't locate it but has since found it and is posting it on to me.
And I feel better knowing that my old Semi-Supabike frame will help Cusqueno finish his Supabike project too. Result!
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Post by wheelson on Aug 9, 2020 13:30:34 GMT
So its "Semi-Supabike"? I guess we're coining new ones every day, me with my "pseudo-Supa". It's great to see yours, Cusqueno's, and my "unpainted" ones alive and soon to be rolling again. As far as the decals, I'll be replacing the downtube "Viscount" and would replace the seat tube and headtube "no red or blue" ones if I could only find them. Best, John "wheelson"
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