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Post by franco on Aug 29, 2020 12:56:05 GMT
Here is the reason I would like a nice three-speed:
The event takes place in Minnesota and Wisconsin, USA. It was cancelled this year due to COVID-19 but sometime I would like to do it. It is an 85 mile, two day tour. With a decent bike, I would consider riding from my home to the event, about 1400 miles across the northeast US and a little bit of Canada, probably a three week trip. I am trying to get in some of these crazy rides while I can, or at least try while I think I can.
Brian
That looks great! I like what they have created, it’s what I take from riding a 3 Speed, more of a simple relaxed adventure ride. These guys have events in the US as well societyofthreespeeds.wordpress.com/Over here there’s various ‘tweed rides’ and of course Eroica Britannia, I’m tempted to do one myself. I’ll have to look into shipping costs for you at some point. We aren’t in abundance of these bikes here but some nice examples do show up, the biggest problem is finding one with the rims in good condition. I follow this guy on YouTube, he owns a fleet of old bikes and does sell some as well, worth keeping an eye on his channel.
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Post by wheelson on Aug 29, 2020 14:15:42 GMT
Brian, That sounds like an excellent plan. Three speeds are a lot of fun, I spent a lot of time working with the Sturmey Archer's back in my '60s and '70s bike shop days. Now in my "retirement", I only see 3 or 4 a season, although the modern S-A's are popping up, even on electric bikes. Getting back to the "while you can", all I can say is DO IT! I have been practically sidelined for the last 3 or 4 years with some sort of autoimmune rheumatoid-arthritis-like-thing. Then last year up popped cervical disk surgery with fusion and all the titanium bits and pieces. This was supposed to be my comeback year but a lower spine MRI says my disk herniation problems are pretty bad down there as well. I'm not whining or complaining since I'm almost 72 and I have more than a few of those epic rides under my belt. And I'm still planning more but not at such a grand scale.
BUT, for you and all my other friends here, please don't put off those epic rides. Heed my and your own advice and "get in some of these crazy rides while I can, or at least try while I think I can".
Best, John 'wheelson'
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Post by brianbutler on Aug 29, 2020 14:55:57 GMT
... the biggest problem is finding one with the rims in good condition. I have a 1954 Raleigh Sports that I have been restoring for a while. It is currently roadworthy but needs sheet metal work and painting on the mudguards and chainguard. The old Dunlop rims were actually OK (nice chrome shop evidently) but the spokes were bad. When I decided to rebuild the wheels, I changed the rims to Sun CR-18 shiny alloy rims, which have the same effective rim diameter as the originals, so you could just replace the rims without changing the spokes. The improvement in liveliness of the bike and braking are pretty dramatic. I think those rims cost me about $60 for the pair.
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Post by franco on Aug 29, 2020 16:50:14 GMT
... the biggest problem is finding one with the rims in good condition. I have a 1954 Raleigh Sports that I have been restoring for a while. It is currently roadworthy but needs sheet metal work and painting on the mudguards and chainguard. The old Dunlop rims were actually OK (nice chrome shop evidently) but the spokes were bad. When I decided to rebuild the wheels, I changed the rims to Sun CR-18 shiny alloy rims, which have the same effective rim diameter as the originals, so you could just replace the rims without changing the spokes. The improvement in liveliness of the bike and braking are pretty dramatic. I think those rims cost me about $60 for the pair. I think it will eventually get to the point of building some, because donor bikes with nice rims are getting scarce as well. I’ve still got the 1959 front dynohub for the Trent Tourist in good condition and I’d like to get that built up and back on the bike. They supposed to be a nightmare to do though because the hub has slots for the spokes, someone said Raleigh used a special jig when they used to build dynohub wheels to hold them in place.
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Post by brianbutler on Aug 29, 2020 18:47:36 GMT
My 1954 has a front dynohub as well. The side with the small flange has slots, the other (dynamo) side has holes. This is because otherwise you would not be able to put a spoke through the small flange because the dynamo would be in the way. It was a little tricky but I found that by lacing the dynamo side first to hold the hub in place, the slotted side wasn't too hard.
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Post by franco on Sept 6, 2020 20:58:17 GMT
A pic from today’s ride I’ve got a Hercules Commuter to work on next when I get chance, nowt special but in good shape for early 1980’s.
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Post by wheelson on Sept 7, 2020 3:12:47 GMT
Beautiful bike and scenery. That red and white really pops! Great job on the restoration. Best, John "wheelson"
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Post by franco on Sept 25, 2020 7:10:30 GMT
It looks like I’ve got to go inside a Sturmey Archer AW hub at some point, never done one before but watched a lot of video tutorials.
I put together a Hercules Commuter, the original wheels were shot on the rims so I picked up some wheels from a 1963 unknown model that are in good condition. The problem I’m having is the high (3rd) gear will not engage. Tried all the cable adjustments, flushed the hub out and re oiled it, it sounds like it’s trying to engage briefly then just spins.
Found an article with this diagnosis:
Fault——————————————Probable Cause—————————————Fix High gear will not engage—-——Worn pinion pins, worn drive clutch———-Replace pinion pins and drive clutch – ALWAYS replace both!
I was hoping it would be a seized pawl but sounds more complicated. I do have a few spare hubs I could take parts from if need be.
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Post by brianbutler on Sept 25, 2020 11:41:03 GMT
This is a very good exploded parts list/view and step-by-step guide to disassemble and reassemble the hub. It is from Sutherland's manual:
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Post by wheelson on Sept 26, 2020 3:58:07 GMT
Brian, great parts list/view of the AW hub, even has a list of things to look for. Thanks for posting an asset to the forum.
Two tips I might add if its not on there: Use a nail set punch on the slots to counter rotate the right hand cup out of the shell. I know it sounds extreme but works great, and I've never seen it damage a hub yet. Don't even think about it, though, with a Shimano 3 speed hub, way too hard and brittle. Also, Franco, when you open the hub you may find some hardened grease that didn't come out when flushing. This is especially true of the thin splines that the pawls catch against. An ice pick is great for dislodging this mess. Also, a third thing to check is that the slot in the axle where the shifting pin slides is free from burrs, hindering the full shifting range. A Swiss file or a stone will smooth things out.
Good luck, I worked on many AW's back in the 1960's and 1970's when Schwinn and all the "English Racer" bikes used so many 3 speeds, occasionally a 5 speed or a TCW with coaster. Now days, maybe one or two a season. Best, John "wheelson"
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Post by franco on Sept 26, 2020 8:28:03 GMT
Thanks for the advice. I forget I downloaded Sutherlands book but that breakdown diagram is really useful. I have an unused working hub that I’m going to dismantle first, partly to get some confidence and partly because I may need some parts from it. Just need a spare day to myself so I can concentrate on what I’m doing. Looking forward to it, feel like it will be one of those what was I worried about jobs or a complete disaster In other 3 Speed news I’m going to look at a 1974 Raleigh Twenty today in decent condition. It seems Facebook marketplace yields some bargains every now and then.
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Post by brianbutler on Sept 26, 2020 12:13:34 GMT
I would also mention being careful working with the pawl springs and do it inside a box. They are thin as hairs and will fly a long distance and be impossible to find. You can probably find replacement springs. I bought a couple dozen at one point and replace them if they look corroded or bent. You can also fashion your own from .010 steel guitar strings. I think I'll start a thread on using discarded musical items for bike repair and maintenance.
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Post by franco on Sept 26, 2020 17:02:17 GMT
Haha, good idea Brian and thanks for the advice again. I went to look at the Raleigh Twenty... He was a likeminded guy that enjoys refurbishing old bikes and I could have spent this weeks wages there! He had an immaculate 1960’s Puch with all the box lining still visible, a Triumph Palm Beach and other stuff for sale. Ended up buying the Raleigh Twenty and a Triumph Traffic Master Twenty, both are fully working but need a proper clean up, the Raleigh has a working dynahub and lights as well. I paid £80 for the pair which is really cheap. Poor picture but here they are...
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Post by franco on Oct 1, 2020 14:21:37 GMT
Took me three hours to overall the SA hub. Not as difficult as I imagined but more fiddly and learnt a fair bit. What I found... The axle key easily slips out of centre so I had to dismantle it a second time to line that up and the pawl springs are unbelievably fiddly to line up before the pawl pin can go through. For a 1960’s hub it was remarkably clean inside, the offending part was a small piece of loose metal stopping the pawls engaging in 3rd gear. Where or what it had came from I don’t know, nothing was broken in there. I’ve pictured the piece of metal to the right of the axle
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Post by brianbutler on Oct 1, 2020 22:01:06 GMT
You are in a maze of twisty passages, all alike. The next level of this game is to dismantle two hubs to bits, mix them together in a paper bag, pour them out on your kitchen table and rebuild both hubs.
Brian
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Post by oldroadietehachapi on Oct 2, 2020 4:51:58 GMT
I haven't seen an English three speed bike in years, nor have I owned one. When I was a boy some kids had them but they were not that popular. I lived in a rural area with poor, often unpaved roads (what now demands a Gravel Bike). Most of us thought an English three speed (we called them English Racers) too fragile for our area. I did have a heavy Sears bike (what they now call Cruisers) with the $8.00 optional two speed Bendix setup. I found some Sears catalog pages from that time (1963). In 1964 we moved to a nice suburb, I got my first 10 speed and never looked back.
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Post by franco on Oct 2, 2020 6:08:14 GMT
You are in a maze of twisty passages, all alike. The next level of this game is to dismantle two hubs to bits, mix them together in a paper bag, pour them out on your kitchen table and rebuild both hubs. Brian Haha. At one point I thought I’d lost a pawl spring and remembered what you said about using a guitar string. I think the next level task will be building a wheel from scratch, it’s on the ‘to do’ list. Jim, these bikes are ideal for compact gravel/dirt tracks with the wider tyres that run at lower pressure. Finding tyres this size with modern puncture protection isn’t easy though.
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Post by oldroadietehachapi on Oct 2, 2020 14:39:25 GMT
Franco wrote "Jim, these bikes are ideal for compact gravel/dirt tracks with the wider tyres that run at lower pressure. Finding tyres this size with modern puncture protection isn’t easy though."
Yes they were. In the 1970s people began modifying them to a form that eventually became the Mountain Bike (think Gary Fisher and others).
This movie tells the story and reminds me of my college years.
See Klunkers at
This is one of Alan Bond's creations
Hanging in a corner, I have an old 1950ish Shelby frame that I may someday make into a Klunker tribute. I think Shelby made the best of those old style frames. They were made of "aircraft tubing", internal lugs held the tubes in place while the frame was dipped brazed; it then was filet brazed. Much lighter than the welded gas pipe competition.
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Post by wheelson on Oct 2, 2020 14:59:19 GMT
You are in a maze of twisty passages, all alike. The next level of this game is to dismantle two hubs to bits, mix them together in a paper bag, pour them out on your kitchen table and rebuild both hubs. Brian Haha. At one point I thought I’d lost a pawl spring and remembered what you said about using a guitar string. I think the next level task will be building a wheel from scratch, it’s on the ‘to do’ list. Jim, these bikes are ideal for compact gravel/dirt tracks with the wider tyres that run at lower pressure. Finding tyres this size with modern puncture protection isn’t easy though. Franco, great job of deciphering the AW hub. I'm thinking that tiny piece might be from one of the pinion wheels. No problem if it all turns and slides. These old 3 speeds are a lot of mechanical fun and they just run forever. I don't have one currently, but my first real bike was an "English racer" 3 speed. They don't show up a lot here in Western Pennsylvania, USA. I see one or two a season at the bike shop I contract with. They're a lot of fun, though, and mechanics here who can work on them are few and far between. Welcome to the club! Best, John "wheelson
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Post by wheelson on Oct 2, 2020 15:14:23 GMT
I haven't seen an English three speed bike in years, nor have I owned one. When I was a boy some kids had them but they were not that popular. I lived in a rural area with poor, often unpaved roads (what now demands a Gravel Bike). Most of us thought an English three speed (we called them English Racers) too fragile for our area. I did have a heavy Sears bike (what they now call Cruisers) with the $8.00 optional two speed Bendix setup. I found some Sears catalog pages from that time (1963). In 1964 we moved to a nice suburb, I got my first 10 speed and never looked back.
Those Bendix 2-speed "kickback" hubs with coaster brake were pretty popular and still command high prices on eBay. They came in red, yellow, and blue bands, each had a different gear ratio. Like the Sturmey Archer 3-speed hubs, they had a lot of small, intricate parts and were a trick to work on. I seldom see one of these on a bike going through our shop in the last 6 or 7 years. Previous to this hub was the 2-speed manually shifted Bendix hub with coaster brake. These were shifted with a lever (sort of like a brake lever) from the handlebars. I've never seen one of these come through the shop in the last 6 or 7 years, but I do have a couple of hubs I've rebuilt and are waiting for the right project. I've also converted one to a 2-speed fixed gear, also awaiting the right project. www.63xc.com/genng/bikesmith.htm and www.63xc.com/lewisc/diy2fg.htm If I ever do a fixed gear bike, I'd need multiple speeds for my ancient legs! Best, John "wheelson"
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Post by franco on Dec 18, 2020 15:21:02 GMT
Found an advert for the Raleigh Trent Tourist, £20 quid back in the day D8A79A3F-FB3E-45DA-9154-B4C6781112C3 by Franco_AC, on Flickr On another note, I finally got the Raleigh Superbe frame and forks back from the powder coaters, looks good and another project in the queue. I’ll get some pictures up soon.
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Post by franco on Dec 18, 2020 20:22:50 GMT
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Post by wheelson on Dec 18, 2020 22:01:47 GMT
Franco, That looks like the color my powdercoater always suggests. Sort of a satin black, it has a certain glow and a great classic look. I have it on my Cannondale and on an ‘83 Bianchi Grizzly. The Bianchi is lugged and the pc is thin enough to give the lug shorelines good definition. Needless to say, I’m pleased with both. PC has served me well, four bikes so far including our 1948 Schwinn tandem (maroon). Best, John “wheelson”
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Post by dracco on Dec 23, 2020 20:03:18 GMT
Looks like classic British Racing Green to me.
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Post by wheelson on Dec 23, 2020 20:22:46 GMT
Looks like classic British Racing Green to me. “Upon further review” I believe you’re right. So much for this tiny iPhone screen. I do love British Racing Green, so much the better. As a side note, did Lambert or Viscount ever offer one in BRG? That would be outstanding. I have a frame I just got for the parts that the previous owner had scraped or sanded all the paint off and now it’s has a thin layer of rust. It should go off to the powdercoater. Hum!! Best, John “wheelson”
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Jem
Viscount
?
Posts: 3,389
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Post by Jem on Dec 23, 2020 20:58:45 GMT
Looks like classic British Racing Green to me. As a side note, did Lambert or Viscount ever offer one in BRG? I don't think I have ever seen one out of the factory in BRG John, but as ever, I am happy to be corrected by those who come after me. Jem
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Post by franco on Dec 23, 2020 21:28:12 GMT
Looks like classic British Racing Green to me. I did some research on this, apparently they mostly used Moss Green and Bronze Green. The Bronze Green is probably the more popular one (lighter in colour and more metallic) but I matched the original colour with Moss Green and gave the powder coaters the RAL code. www.ralcolorchart.com/ral-classic/ral-6005-moss-green
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Post by franco on Dec 23, 2020 21:50:08 GMT
This guy found a mix ratio for the Bronze Green. I’ve not looked but it’s apparently impossible to buy it.
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Post by brianbutler on Dec 24, 2020 2:14:23 GMT
Years ago I was having the house painted white with black shutters. The father in the father and son painting business was an older gentleman and fine artist (i.e. actual paintings). He enjoyed mixing colors. When I mentioned black shutters he said "You don't want that. Black cuts a hole in the house. I'll mix in a little green." I said I didn't want green shutters and he assured me they would look black but "everyone that walks by will wonder if they are black or green." He did the work and they looked black but I'll be darned, the first couple that walked past the house stopped to ask if the shutters were black or green.
I think BRG is distinctly green but in the same family.
Brian
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Post by franco on Jan 9, 2021 20:02:12 GMT
It looks like this Hercules is staying with me, I sold it to someone in London back in November but the travel restrictions meant he couldn’t collect it. Finally refunded him today. Kind of pleased in a way, there was no need to sell it other than the ‘trimming down the herd’ reason. 300F3315-F64B-4D72-8E54-E53B45059C76 by Franco_AC, on Flickr
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