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Post by kickstandman on Apr 21, 2016 5:54:50 GMT
Most of my free wheels are difficult to remove. I lubricate them, I have most of the free wheel removing tools. I even took a free wheel to the LBS to get removed and they did it immediately. I use to get free wheels removed by myself. I don't know why I'm having so much trouble. I've watched the youtube videos and I've read plenty of articles on it. It's frustrating because I get the spokes to replace bent or old ones but get stuck at step one. I know you use the free wheel remover in a counter-clockwise movement, Correct? I lubricate, I've used vices, even put a pipe on the wrench for more leverage.
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Post by cusqueno on Apr 21, 2016 9:53:32 GMT
I have ruined several freewheel removal tools and also made useless the cut-outs or holes that the tools are supposed to mate with. Perhaps I've just bought cheap tools made of soft steel. Back in the day I never used a proper tool, just a hammer and an old screwdriver, small cold chisel or large nail. If there's a 'trick' it might be always to keep the tool right up against the free wheel using a quick release skewer or nuts on the axle if there's no QR. But you knew that anyway. I tend to use some sort of long spanner (wrench) to engage the tool and hit the end, rather than just lean on it. Trying to turn clockwise initially might break some of the stiction or rust holding it. I think ideally the tool should be clamped in a vice, which in turn is firmly fixed to something large and heavy, like the Earth, and the wheel turned (work out carefully which is the right way to turn it!)
Of course, later Viscounts came with Uniglide (UG) Shimano cassette free hubs. In many ways these are superior to free wheels, but with the added quirk that they are held on by the last (smallest) cog, which is threaded. You therefore need two chain whips to remove a UG cassette - one to hold the rest of the cassette still and the other to unscrew the smallest cog.
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Post by oldroadietehachapi on Apr 21, 2016 10:00:56 GMT
I have removed dozens; some were stubborn. Yes, turn counterclockwise to loosen. I use a freewheel tool and a big wrench. You must have the correct tool; there are many. Hold freewheel tool in place (so it won't pop off) with the quick release skewer (not quite tight). Stand the wheel upright on the floor, stand perpendicular to the wheel, with the wheel in front of you. Put your left hand on the wheel and the right hand on the big wrench. In this position I can push down on the wrench while holding the wheel upright. If really stubborn, have a second person hold the wheel and tap on the wrench with a hammer. This works best when a tire is mounted on the rim. So far, this has worked for me.
Cassettes are a different story.
Good Luck
Jim
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Post by aeropete on Apr 21, 2016 12:52:51 GMT
Ilearned the hard way, wrecking a rare freewheel in the proces, that it is all about leverage - hitting anything with anything could easily end in tears. I have a big old vice I got on ebay for a tenner, I can hardly lift it. Put the correct removal tool in the vice grippng the 'flats' - business end up, drop the wheel freewheel side down over the removal tool, rotate wheel counter-clockwise. Nice and gentle, never failed me yet.
Regards, aeropete.
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Post by bobcallahan on Jul 17, 2016 21:53:51 GMT
I always put the freewheel remover in a sturdy vise, insert the freewheel into the tool, and turn the bicycle wheel. You'll get plenty of leverage.
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Post by kickstandman on Jul 18, 2016 5:45:05 GMT
I have come to find out that even with the vice option, some bike mechanics have said they've torn up a whole work bench because even a vice didn't do the job.
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Post by bobcallahan on Jul 27, 2016 23:33:56 GMT
My vise came from a trolley repair barn in Philadelphia. I mounted it on a workbench made from a double layer of 3/4" plywood. I removed thousands of freewheels and never had a problem.
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Post by 54roadie on Jul 28, 2016 4:17:17 GMT
Torn up a workbench? hmmm, either flagrant exaggeration, or they were doing something wrong. Had the QR skewer too tight, perhaps...
Frank
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Post by kickstandman on Jul 28, 2016 22:39:00 GMT
Okay, thanks, in the end, most of us know to use a vice on freewheels; I really was looking for something else than vices or the right lubricant. I guess these two answers are largely it.
Oh, and using a wrench on the free wheel remover and using a pipe to hold the wrench with.
I thought maybe there was some way I had not known about.
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Post by busaste on Aug 24, 2016 18:23:37 GMT
Okay, thanks, in the end, most of us know to use a vice on freewheels; I really was looking for something else than vices or the right lubricant. I guess these two answers are largely it. Oh, and using a wrench on the free wheel remover and using a pipe to hold the wrench with. I thought maybe there was some way I had not known about. My freewheel removal tool is made by Shimano and was part of a 'Dura-ace' package of goodies. It is a perfect fit and can take an unimaginable amount of abuse. I always clean the hub threads with a wire brush and then spread copper based anti-sieze compound (e.g. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Granville-COPPER-Slip-Grease-500g-Tin-Multipurpose-Anti-Seize-Assembly-Compound-/400963480827?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368) over them before screwing on a freewheel. Unless short of parts, I only use 1970s Shimano freewheels too. Mega build quality. Never had a problem in over 40 years. Cheers Steve |
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