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Post by oldroadietehachapi on Apr 29, 2022 15:51:48 GMT
I am considering adding an electric drive to one of my bikes; something like this. Do any of you have a bit of insight that may help? According to most, the drop bars must go, but I would prefer to keep them. The conversion in the link made them work, any suggestions?
I will not be converting my precious Viscount. The picture below is the rig I plan to convert.
Cheers Jim
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Post by wheelson on Apr 29, 2022 23:56:31 GMT
I am considering adding an electric drive to one of my bikes; something like this. Do any of you have a bit of insight that may help? According to most, the drop bars must go, but I would prefer to keep them. The conversion in the link made them work, any suggestions?
I will not be converting my precious Viscount. The picture below is the rig I plan to convert.
Cheers Jim
Jim, that’s one of the best write ups I’ve seen. Some things look familiar from what I’ve seen around the shop. The owner has done more than a few conversions over the past few years. With your knowledge of bike mechanics, a goodly supply of tools, a great shop, and your medical issues, I’d say go for it! Best, John “wheelson” |
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Post by brianbutler on Apr 30, 2022 0:52:53 GMT
Jim, that looks like a project to keep you busy for a while. Good luck. Can't wait to see the result.
Brian
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Post by oldroadietehachapi on May 5, 2022 4:53:56 GMT
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Post by oldroadietehachapi on May 20, 2022 5:03:56 GMT
My planning stage is pretty much complete. I found this video describing a build much like I plan for my bike; a great help. He seems to have a brake switch solution while using a drop bar with road brake levers. I plan the same motor and controller but (since my bike has eyelets) want to use a different rear rack mounted battery. I should be able to throw my saddle bags over the rear rack. I ordered a set of E-Bike Brake Sensor Cut Off Switches (MS-BK-ES ). Sadly, they are coming from China, so I won't see them for a couple of weeks. I plan to order a Bafang BBS02 Mid Drive Ebike Motor Kit this week. I plan to use a small chain ring as the bike is to be built for climbing, not top speed. I still do not know if I can substitute the supplied chain ring with one for a regular bike; I wonder what the BCD is?
I will post my progress; which may be a bit slow.
Ride Happy Jim
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Post by oldroadietehachapi on May 20, 2022 15:47:45 GMT
Today, I pulled the trigger and bought the EBike conversion kit. See the pictures to see what I purchased. Now the fun begins!
Cheers Jim
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Post by oldroadietehachapi on May 22, 2022 18:49:08 GMT
After a bit of research, it turns out that Bafang chain wheels (crankset to me) have a unique bolt pattern, fixed chain rings, and are sort of recessed over the motor cover. Many steel and alloy chain wheels are available. I bought a chain ring adapter that allows me to fit 110 BCD chain rings to the Bagang hub. This setup sets the chain ring about 5mm (maybe one cog) farther out. I am looking forward to receiving all of my parts and the challenge of the install.
The Bafang motor only fits 1.37″ x 24 Bottom Brackets. Therefore a Viscount Aerospace is not compatible; perhaps a Sebring is? A Viscount Sebring EBike would be a real kick.
This thread is sort of becoming a log of my EBike conversion.
Cheers Jim
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Post by wheelson on May 22, 2022 22:06:25 GMT
After a bit of research, it turns out that Bafang chain wheels (crankset to me) have a unique bolt pattern, fixed chain rings, and are sort of recessed over the motor cover. Many steel and alloy chain wheels are available. I bought a chain ring adapter that allows me to fit 110 BCD chain rings to the Bagang hub. This setup sets the chain ring about 5mm (maybe one cog) farther out. I am looking forward to receiving all of my parts and the challenge of the install.
The Bafang motor only fits 1.37″ x 24 Bottom Brackets. Therefore a Viscount Aerospace is not compatible; perhaps a Sebring is? A Viscount Sebring EBike would be a real kick.
This thread is sort of becoming a log of my EBike conversion.
Cheers Jim
Thanks for the update, Jim. I may at some point be going this route. I think you’re right about the Sebring bottom bracket size. I believe the old Lamberts (Super Sport?) with the lugged frames are also 1.37”x 24. The only other option for a Viscount would probably be a front wheel motor as I don’t think there is enough spacing for a rear wheel motor. I agree, though, that a motorized Viscount (or Lambert) would be pretty cool for me as a health-inducted option and a good excuse for another suitable frame acquisition. Best, John “wheelson” |
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Post by brianbutler on May 23, 2022 0:25:31 GMT
The Viscount Sebring, Gran Sport, and Gran Prix, as well as the early Lamberts all have threaded BB's. The Gran Sport and Gran Prix have the fillet brazed "aerospace" frames.
Brian
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Post by oldroadietehachapi on May 27, 2022 18:27:01 GMT
Today I started the Bafang BBS02 EBike conversion. I plan to post a log for those who may be interested. Installing the motor is as simple as changing a bottom bracket. The motor is a slip fit through the bottom bracket with (right hand thread) lock rings holding it in place. This requires a standard lock ring tool and a special tool supplied in the kit. If the motor becomes loose, operating the bike may slightly damage the BB threads; then they might need to be chased to return to a standard BB. My major concern was chain alignment; turns out to be not all that bad. Using the standard Bafang chainwheel the chain aligns nicely to the 4th cog from the outside on my 9 speed (130mm spaced) setup. I would of course prefer a perfect alignment.
I purchased an adapter to allow the use of standard 110BCD chainrings; the adapter places the chain out about two more cogs. This is not acceptable and I now have another nicely made bike part to through in a drawer.
The stock steel chainwheel is just plain ugly, even with the cheap plastic cover installed. I ordered a nice aluminum wheel on eBay which should have the proper spacing; sadly, it is on a slow boat from China.
My derailleur cable runs beneath the BB. Solutions suggested online are wedging on a spacer, or just letting the cable rub across the motor. I don’t like these suggestions; I have some ideas for a solution and will later report on whatever works the best.
Cheers Jim
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Post by oldroadietehachapi on May 27, 2022 21:39:25 GMT
At this point I plan to reroute the derailleur over the top of the BB and Chain stay (an old school solution). I already have the parts and it should make a clean setup.
Cheers Jim
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Post by brianbutler on May 28, 2022 10:33:31 GMT
Jim, I like that solution because it solves your immediate problem and because I never liked the idea of cables under the bottom bracket. It seems to expose the cables to too much dirt and road hazards, not to mention corrosion of the holes drilled through the BB shell. Perhaps not a major concern in am arid climate, but here the roads are covered with salt four months a year.
Brian
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Post by oldroadietehachapi on Jun 21, 2022 15:16:28 GMT
At long last I have all the parts I need to complete the project. I have some chores to complete before I can proceed. I will post my progress.
Cheers
Jim
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Post by oldroadietehachapi on Jun 21, 2022 18:43:50 GMT
I have made some progress today. I installed a Lekkie chainwheel (for BBS02); it has the most offset possible and yields a perfect chain alignment. In my ignorance I bought a couple of nice chainwheels that fit the BBSHD not The BBS02, the bolt pattern is different (who knows?) so I have a couple of extra parts. If any of you are planning a BBSHD build let me know. Mounting the controls on a drop bar is difficult. The controls only fit 22.2 Diameter bars and I have seen some ugly zip tie installations. My solution is a handlebar extension, simple and nice (throttle on right, controller in center). Other problems need to be resolved. For example, what is the best solution for what to do with the extra wire). I must return to my wildfire weed abatement clearing (third time this year) so I must lay off the project for a few days.
Ride Happy Jim
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Post by oldroadietehachapi on Oct 1, 2022 23:48:30 GMT
Well, she is done and needs a name (suggestions?). My overall conclusion, converting a road bike (versus a whatever) requires ingenuity and adaptation. Also, the bike gained 28 pounds during the conversion; grand total 51 pounds.
A few problems I solved during my learning process. The sidepull rear brake had little clearance with the battery. My solution was to mount the brake on the frontside of the brake bridge. This took a bit of adaptation.
The narrow spacing of the rear stays required adapting an alternate sensor magnet.
Drop bars cannot use the supplied brake levers so brake sensors had to be added. The pictures show the locations I used. I have a bar end shifter and adapting a shift sensor (like the brake sensors) required finding a non-standard location.
The battery rack mounting hardware would not work on my frame, but the right pieces were found and installed.
The shift cable had to be rerouted over the bottom bracket shell. My solution was old style clamp on cable mounts.
EBike controls simply do not work on drop bars. My solution was a handlebar extension.
Chain line on original chain wheel was off. This required a different chain wheel.
I added a rubber block (as a stop) between the motor and the downtube. Without one the motor simply pushes against the tube.
The standard wiring harness leaves a lot of loose cables and connector plugs hanging in front of the handlebars (designed for upright bikes I suppose). I only have a temporary (inelegant) solution and am considering a handlebar bag, or maybe something more clever. SUGGESTIONS?
Cheers Jim
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Post by brianbutler on Oct 2, 2022 0:25:52 GMT
Wow. A very impressive build.
Brian
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Post by oldroadietehachapi on Oct 2, 2022 0:31:39 GMT
I completed the first ride. I began by riding the completed bike without assist; I wanted to check the handling and see that everything was correct. Despite being heavier, the bike still handles nice (think lightly loaded touring bike). Riding power off, there is noticeable drag caused by turning the motor with the pedals.
I then turned the power on and whoosh! I was amazed with the power. The pedal assist works best with a consistent cadence. You may add a bit of assist on hills, but overall, it makes the world seem flat. If you choose, you can simply ride on the hand throttle and not pedal at all. This makes the entire world feel like a descent.
I was surprised to have only two problems. The battery rattles in the rack and the bottom bracket loosened up. Some rubber will correct the first and Loctite the second. The ride home was with just pedal power; I found it not unlike a touring bike. Therefore, it will be no big deal if the battery goes dead.
This is going to be fun!
Cheers Jim
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Post by wheelson on Oct 2, 2022 13:19:44 GMT
I completed the first ride. I began by riding the completed bike without assist; I wanted to check the handling and see that everything was correct. Despite being heavier, the bike still handles nice (think lightly loaded touring bike). Riding power off, there is noticeable drag caused by turning the motor with the pedals.
I then turned the power on and whoosh! I was amazed with the power. The pedal assist works best with a consistent cadence. You may add a bit of assist on hills, but overall, it makes the world seem flat. If you choose, you can simply ride on the hand throttle and not pedal at all. This makes the entire world feel like a descent.
I was surprised to have only two problems. The battery rattles in the rack and the bottom bracket loosened up. Some rubber will correct the first and Loctite the second. The ride home was with just pedal power; I found it not unlike a touring bike. Therefore, it will be no big deal if the battery goes dead.
This is going to be fun!
Cheers Jim
Excellent write up, Jim. I’m really glad It all worked out so well, but knowing your expertise, how could it be any other way?! I’ll be working on my own conversion over the off season. It’s a front wheel system so I’m not expecting much in the way of performance, but it’s an almost new takeoff that I got for pennies on the dollar. It will no doubt serve its purpose of getting me home off the the trail after a late workday at shop. Again, thanks for leading the way. Best, John “wheelson” |
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Jem
Viscount
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Posts: 3,390 
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Post by Jem on Oct 2, 2022 18:45:02 GMT
That's all that counts Jim. I wouldn't rule one out. I had a go on one and found it exactly as you detail. |
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Post by oldroadietehachapi on Oct 2, 2022 19:41:05 GMT
Today was a performance test. I finished my nice comfy ride with climb to the top of the mountain that is behind my house. the 1100ft climb in less than one mile (20% grade) was not a problem. In fact, it was a bigger test of my brakes, than the motor.
The picture is worth a thousand words. Note, the picture is at the top of the climb looking southwest and that is not my house in the background.
Cheers Jim
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Jem
Viscount
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Posts: 3,390
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Post by Jem on Oct 3, 2022 12:26:50 GMT
Jim - if we had a photo of the month competition, then that one there is the winner! Very good.
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Post by wheelson on Oct 19, 2022 14:55:42 GMT
Jim - if we had a photo of the month competition, then that one there is the winner! Very good. Jim, I like how your conversion passes the 10 foot test of an e-bike actually looking like a bike. Very few I’ve see look so well done. Best, John “wheelson” |
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Post by oldroadietehachapi on Oct 20, 2022 13:56:05 GMT
I like that as well. Nevertheless, the intent was not a stealth bike but more of an e-bike that suits an avid cyclist. I plan to mount my panniers on the rear rack, which will not only provide great utility, they will also hide the battery. I bought a handlebar bag, which I will modify to contain the wire bundle in the front. This will happen once I finish some honey-dos. I will post a picture of the result.
Cheers
Jim
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Post by oldroadietehachapi on Sept 24, 2023 18:16:01 GMT
I also am posting this here (just in case it is being followed). This is a current picture of my eBike conversion. Wiring bundled into front bag and battery underneath the rear Bag and Panniers. Stealthy isn't it? Cheers Jim
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