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Post by brianbutler on Apr 9, 2022 11:51:04 GMT
I have been road-testing every bike in my fleet, noting any problems, so I can bring them all up to trouble-free status. One of them is a late 60's Dawes Galaxy that probably came with a Simplex or Huret RD. I have replaced the shifting system with Suntour V-GT/V-Comp/ratchet shifters. There is no derailleur hanger built into the dropout. When I built the bike, I used a separate hanger that bolts through the dropout slot. This arrangement uses up quite a bit of the slot and pushes the freewheel too far forward, where it makes contact with the chain stay. Hence the intermittent noise I noticed.
I am considering several solutions:
1. Look for some other type of hanger - Possible but I feel like I have exhausted this possibility.
2. Drill and thread a hole in the dropout so the hanger can be attached there instead of through the slot. This would provide enough clearance and a clean fix but is risky. The hole would be a few millimeters from the end of the slot. I am worried about weakening the dropout at this critical point. A failure would probably mean trashing the frame.
3. Attach the hanger without drilling. Possibilities are using a small C-clamp (ugly), JB weld (permanent), double sided adhesive (weak), or nothing (held in place by QR skewer).
I am currently using the "nothing" option, which will work fine until I need to change a rear flat in some inconvenient location. Removing the rear wheel will also involve detaching the RD and hanger assembly and letting it hang by the cable while I fiddle with the tire.
I could also fix the problem by spreading the rear stays to 126mm (from the current 120mm), which would involve replacing the rear axle, and it is another opportunity to damage a vintage frame.
I'm just seeing if anyone has had this problem or can think of a solution I haven't mentioned.
Brian
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Post by wheelson on Apr 9, 2022 13:46:10 GMT
I have been road-testing every bike in my fleet, noting any problems, so I can bring them all up to trouble-free status. One of them is a late 60's Dawes Galaxy that probably came with a Simplex or Huret RD. I have replaced the shifting system with Suntour V-GT/V-Comp/ratchet shifters. There is no derailleur hanger built into the dropout. When I built the bike, I used a separate hanger that bolts through the dropout slot. This arrangement uses up quite a bit of the slot and pushes the freewheel too far forward, where it makes contact with the chain stay. Hence the intermittent noise I noticed.
I am considering several solutions:
1. Look for some other type of hanger - Possible but I feel like I have exhausted this possibility.
2. Drill and thread a hole in the dropout so the hanger can be attached there instead of through the slot. This would provide enough clearance and a clean fix but is risky. The hole would be a few millimeters from the end of the slot. I am worried about weakening the dropout at this critical point. A failure would probably mean trashing the frame.
3. Attach the hanger without drilling. Possibilities are using a small C-clamp (ugly), JB weld (permanent), double sided adhesive (weak), or nothing (held in place by QR skewer).
I am currently using the "nothing" option, which will work fine until I need to change a rear flat in some inconvenient location. Removing the rear wheel will also involve detaching the RD and hanger assembly and letting it hang by the cable while I fiddle with the tire.
I could also fix the problem by spreading the rear stays to 126mm (from the current 120mm), which would involve replacing the rear axle, and it is another opportunity to damage a vintage frame.
I'm just seeing if anyone has had this problem or can think of a solution I haven't mentioned.
Brian
I’ve seen more than a few flat stamped dropouts drilled, and I don’t recall seeing a lot of broken ones. If you want to be super safe, I’d opt for the JB Weld, virtually invisible, totally reversible with just some paint sacrificed. And no worse off in the non-riding failure mode. Best, John “wheelson” |
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Post by brianbutler on Apr 9, 2022 18:35:34 GMT
Thanks for the answer. The dropouts are chromed, so no paint to worry about. And on this bike, even the paint doesn't have much paint to worry about. I was under the impression JB Weld was a permanent epoxy or something similar, but if it is reversible then that's the way I'll go. How do you reverse it?
Brian
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Post by wheelson on Apr 10, 2022 0:42:25 GMT
Thanks for the answer. The dropouts are chromed, so no paint to worry about. And on this bike, even the paint doesn't have much paint to worry about. I was under the impression JB Weld was a permanent epoxy or something similar, but if it is reversible then that's the way I'll go. How do you reverse it? Brian They make a JB Weld Lite that is a faster dry, not sure if less strength. I suspect that gluing to chrome might be somewhat less than permanent anyway. Best, John “wheelson” |
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Post by brianbutler on Apr 10, 2022 1:26:33 GMT
Thanks for the answer. The dropouts are chromed, so no paint to worry about. And on this bike, even the paint doesn't have much paint to worry about. I was under the impression JB Weld was a permanent epoxy or something similar, but if it is reversible then that's the way I'll go. How do you reverse it? Brian They make a JB Weld Lite that is a faster dry, not sure if less strength. I suspect that gluing to chrome might be somewhat less than permanent anyway. Best, John “wheelson” Evidently heating to 600F with a heat gun will release regular JB Weld so that's what I will use. I doubt I will ever need to remove the hanger anyway. The JB Weld solution is better than the screw for another reason, too. The proximity of the screw to the end of the slot interferes with the quick release nut so you still have to move the axle forward. With JB Weld, nothing protrudes from the outer face of the hanger so I can use the entire slot.
Brian
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Post by wheelson on Apr 10, 2022 1:49:32 GMT
They make a JB Weld Lite that is a faster dry, not sure if less strength. I suspect that gluing to chrome might be somewhat less than permanent anyway. Best, John “wheelson” Evidently heating to 600F with a heat gun will release regular JB Weld so that's what I will use. I doubt I will ever need to remove the hanger anyway. The JB Weld solution is better than the screw for another reason, too. The proximity of the screw to the end of the slot interferes with the quick release nut so you still have to move the axle forward. With JB Weld, nothing protrudes from the outer face of the hanger so I can use the entire slot.
Brian
Good deal. I usually end up with the entire slot as I tend to run bigger tires and prefer a longer wheelbase. Best, J (w) |
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Post by brianbutler on Apr 10, 2022 11:31:40 GMT
Evidently heating to 600F with a heat gun will release regular JB Weld so that's what I will use. I doubt I will ever need to remove the hanger anyway. The JB Weld solution is better than the screw for another reason, too. The proximity of the screw to the end of the slot interferes with the quick release nut so you still have to move the axle forward. With JB Weld, nothing protrudes from the outer face of the hanger so I can use the entire slot.
Brian
Good deal. I usually end up with the entire slot as I tend to run bigger tires and prefer a longer wheelbase. Best, J (w) Same here. |
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Post by brianbutler on Apr 12, 2022 0:14:17 GMT
The JB Weld solution worked perfectly.
Brian
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