rodh
Viscount
Posts: 122
|
Post by rodh on Feb 15, 2021 22:57:02 GMT
I hope this isn't heresy, but I've been offered a cheap six speed freewheel so I wonder: who else has run one on a Pro?
Obviously the 126mm OND of the rear wheel should support this, but are there any other gotchas, like chain rub on the rear dropout, needing to increase the dish of the wheel, or a limit in setting up the derailleur to reach all the sprockets?
Also, if 6 speeds fit 126mm OND, wouldn't 7 too, as a result of closer spacing, or would 7 be fiddly on a friction shifter? I think the freewheel is an MF-7400, but I'm not sure how many sprockets it has or their tooth counts yet.
Cheers, Rod
|
|
|
Post by wheelson on Feb 16, 2021 2:08:08 GMT
Well, maybe. This depends on a number of things. You're right, 126mm spacing should support 6 speed spacing. But that would also depend on a decent chain line with the original crankset, the ability space the rear hub bushings properly, re-dishing the rear wheel, and derailleur limits. My main worry would be the space at the small freewheel sprocket and the dropout/chainstay. In my experience, that's the area that always seems to give me grief. All that being said, I haven't tried a 6 speed on my unknown-model-but-probably Aerospace Pro, just a triple chainring (changed the bottom bracket axle), Titlist front changer, a 14-32 5 speed freewheel, and a Crane long cage rear derailleur. The downtube shifters are standard friction Shimano 333. Everything shifts just fine.
I'll probably stick with a double crankset and wide ratio 5 speed setup for my Aerospace Pro and my "pseudo" Supa. I tend to standardize within a bike type so that I can easily interchange wheels and other components. If I were to go with a 6 speed, I expect it would work. A 7 speed may be pushing it a bit too far. Best, John "wheelson"
|
|
|
Post by oldroadietehachapi on Feb 16, 2021 3:23:08 GMT
Sheldon Brown has a great web page on the subject. As John said, their are many variables. Since calculation is difficult, I usually grab a spare freewheel and and do a test fit. Sheldon Brown's crib sheet is shown below.
Jim
|
|
|
Post by triitout on Feb 16, 2021 4:04:47 GMT
I'm running 6 speed shimano freewheels (MF TZ 500-6) on my Aerospace Pro and GP (14-28) with no problem on 700c wheels. I really like the smaller steps between the cogs compared to my old 5 speed freewheel when it comes to dialing in the right cadence. I'm using a basic 5-6-7 speed KMC chain and it works well with the Viscount porthole crankset and friction shifters. Go for it! As far a seven speeds, I've got an Aerospace frame I'm using indoors only (dented chain stay) that I jammed in a 700c 130mm wheel with a 7 speed cassette 12-28. I set the Shimano Titlist limit screws to stop short of the 12 tooth cog as I don't have the legs for it anyway. I found that friction shifting old bikes are pretty forgiving no matter what you throw on them.
|
|
rodh
Viscount
Posts: 122
|
Post by rodh on Feb 16, 2021 11:26:05 GMT
Thanks for the input ... I did briefly look into the Ultra-6, but they're Ultra expensive too, so abandonned that idea
So, using a stsndard spaced 6 speed (5.5mm extra, 29.5mm overall) the list seems to be ...
1) move the axle ~3mm (& update bushings) 2) re-dish the wheel ~3mm, to keep it centered 3) accept ~3mm less chain/dropout clearance 4) chainline should be as before 5) hope derailleur will reach
... or just try it and see!
If (1) and (2) are necessary, I could combine this with the refurb of my new-to-me Mavic wheel. (currently stalled by corroded-stuck locknuts), but I guess a flatter dish will weaken it slightly.
Ah, so many tasks, so little time ... and it seems like quite a lot of work for quite a small reward. I need to be sure the cassette has the right sprockets before I decide - hopefully 14/28, 6 speed.
|
|
|
Post by wheelson on Feb 16, 2021 12:17:56 GMT
Thanks for the input ... I did briefly look into the Ultra-6, but they're Ultra expensive too, so abandonned that idea So, using a stsndard spaced 6 speed (5.5mm extra, 29.5mm overall) the list seems to be ... 1) move the axle ~3mm (& update bushings) 2) re-dish the wheel ~3mm, to keep it centered 3) accept ~3mm less chain/dropout clearance 4) chainline should be as before 5) hope derailleur will reach ... or just try it and see! If (1) and (2) are necessary, I could combine this with the refurb of my new-to-me Mavic wheel. (currently stalled by corroded-stuck locknuts), but I guess a flatter dish will weaken it slightly. Ah, so many tasks, so little time ... and it seems like quite a lot of work for quite a small reward. I need to be sure the cassette has the right sprockets before I decide - hopefully 14/28, 6 speed. Sounds like you have most everything covered. True, a lot of work but to me riding the bike is only half the game. Seldom have I been content to own a bike and “let it be”. And, in my old age of 72, modifications to bikes has become almost a necessity. It’s a bit easier for me since I’ve accumulated bike stuff since I was a teen so trying the odd wheel is a regular occurrence. Yes, a 650b x 38 5 speed wheel set will fit an Aerospace. Back to your bike, I’d certainly try the 6 speed, even the 7, you should be able to re-space the hub and check all the clearances before you re-dish, might have to remove the tire though. Good luck, sounds like you’re on the way to making a rider that works for you. Best, John “wheelson”
|
|
|
Post by dracco on Feb 16, 2021 18:35:17 GMT
I'm running a 6-speed IRD Classica freewheel (14/17/20/24/28/32) on a Mavic MA2 wheel(700C) with a Miche hub. Combined with a Sugino GT chainset (50/36) this works pretty well and gives me quite reasonable uphill performance. I'm using a Suntour Cyclone MkII RD with a long cage (the "3700" or "GT" model). The IRD freewheel replaced the original one that came with the wheel (an eBay purchase) - a Regina freewheel with a rather less forgiving gearing (12/13/14/15/17/20).
|
|
|
Post by franco on Feb 16, 2021 20:12:54 GMT
|
|
rodh
Viscount
Posts: 122
|
Post by rodh on Feb 16, 2021 23:53:44 GMT
Darn it, I just sold a couple of bikes with megarange gearing! Thanks anyway Franco, and John: that sounds familiar! (I'm prone to tinkering; it's not just about the ride)
Thanks all (even if I didn't mention you personally). Your input's much appreciated, Rod
|
|
|
Post by wheelson on Feb 17, 2021 13:30:38 GMT
Darn it, I just sold a couple of bikes with megarange gearing! Thanks anyway Franco, and John: that sounds familiar! (I'm prone to tinkering; it's not just about the ride) Thanks all (even if I didn't mention you personally). Your input's much appreciated, Rod Megarange is not a bad idea in many cases. It’s sort of normal gearing with a bailout gear. Some like it, some don’t. A lot depends on terrain and riding style. If you’re a rider who likes to maintain a certain cadence, then a gear set of close but equally spaced gears is probably something to consider. I’m finding that some of my bikes have gearing that I tend to use only certain gears for most of my riding. I’m sure that if I put some effort into documenting what works best, I could simplify my gearing across the board. Easier said than done, I guess, unless you have a freewheel or cassette that allows easy sprocket change. The older Shimano 5 and 6 speed IG cassette hubs were easy. Best, John “wheelson”
|
|
|
Post by brianbutler on Feb 17, 2021 16:25:15 GMT
I have been experimenting with using as FEW gears as possible, partly as a fitness idea and partly because I like to test the limits of minimalism. I don't race and I am not particularly speed or time oriented, averaging about 15mph over a 20-30 mile ride on local paved roads. I often go out of my way to climb hills even though it slows me down considerably. I can usually do this using no more than three gear ratios.
This is probably heresy but I think I get a better workout with a variety of cadences and muscle loads than I do trying to maintain a narrow cadence window with lots of gears. I guess the ultimate manifestation of this would be using a single speed or fixie for road cycling. I have tried to determine what gear I would want for that type of riding. The local terrain, while not enormously hilly, seems to exceed what I can do with a single gear and without walking the bike up the occasional steep pitch. Maybe a two-speed (2 chain rings and one rear cog) would be the way to go. I will try to determine what the two gears should be by using only two gears on a ten-speed that I know can get me anywhere locally.
The mountains of New Hampshire are a different story and might always require elaborate gearing. Maybe I will see what the minimum number of gears is for that terrain as well.
Brian
|
|
|
Post by franco on Feb 17, 2021 17:14:18 GMT
The megarange for me is how John described it, that low cog does bail me out on some hills, just! I don’t like the way they look with the ridiculous jump in cog size but alternative options are limited.
On the subject of less gears, I find there are too many on my Trek that do similar things (24 speed) so just end up clicking through gears all the time and never really settling down during riding. The Aerospace 400 on the other hand is 10 speed with a compact chainset and 5 speed (28T max) freewheel, it’s all I really need for the climbs and distances I do. Definitely more pleasurable to ride.
I think a compact Chainset is the way to go now on these older bikes, it’s easier than hunting down a decent freewheel then maybe having to fit a long cage derailleur as well. Or replacing the inner ring in the case of the porthole chainset.
|
|
|
Post by wheelson on Feb 17, 2021 18:59:43 GMT
I agree with Brian and Franco, many times less is better. In my experience, many bikes have a good deal of gearing overlap. Of course, this can be plotted out or use a calculator like this one: www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.htmlWhat I really need to do is pay particular attention to the gears I use when I ride a particular bike on a particular course. On a rail trail, I'm usually in a pretty narrow range, except for the hills getting to or returning from the trail. On one or two bikes, it seems I just can't find that sweet spot, and that's when I need to record what gear inch is missing. For most road or touring bikes, however, for me it's as many gears as possible. The answer, of course, is to use this argument to justify more bikes, a purpose driven scenario. I pretty much do that already but at some point I have to scale down. That's when my "standardization" will allow me to swap wheels and other components to tweak the bike to the ride. But for now, about 10 rideable bikes do nicely! Best, John "wheelson"
|
|
rodh
Viscount
Posts: 122
|
Post by rodh on Feb 17, 2021 19:23:40 GMT
Thanks John, useful link.
That makes it plain that with my 52/42 chainset I basically get one more gear at each end and the rest is all repetition! Why was this so common back in the day? Was it just to add gears assuming that crossed high-to-low, front-to-back, was a bad idea?
Even with a more modern 53/39 or 50/34 chainset, there's still wasted gears. Is it better to target the sprockets' effect to interleave the chainrings' effect?
Thanks, Rod
|
|
|
Post by brianbutler on Feb 17, 2021 20:28:16 GMT
I just went out for 19 miles in cold weather (27F) and stuck to one gear (44/21 = 57 inch gear) for the entire ride. It was a bit too low for much of the ride. I was out of the saddle but not struggling too badly on five separate hills with grades of about 7% and distances of 1/4 to 1/2 mile. I don't really like standing 200 pounds uphill on a bike with friction shifters and 50 year old drive components. That anxiety affected my uphill efficiency. I think a well built lightweight single speed in the 70 inch gear range would be just about right, and would be a good incentive to lose 20 pounds:)
Brian
|
|
|
Post by wheelson on Feb 17, 2021 22:07:01 GMT
Thanks John, useful link. That makes it plain that with my 52/42 chainset I basically get one more gear at each end and the rest is all repetition! Why was this so common back in the day? Was it just to add gears assuming that crossed high-to-low, front-to-back, was a bad idea? Even with a more modern 53/39 or 50/34 chainset, there's still wasted gears. Is it better to target the sprockets' effect to interleave the chainrings' effect? Thanks, Rod Hi Rod, Gearing is an art or science unto itself - maybe a black art as you will find quite a few opinions on what's best. My best take on much of the modern stuff is that it can be viewed as a "standardization" for bike manufacturers, fewer choices for the end user. Think 170mm crank lengths for road bikes, 175mm for mountain bikes. Following calculations dug out from the internet, my wife should be riding 155's, no more than 160's, yet very short or very long cranksets are very difficult to find. Back on the subject of gearing, here's another Sheldon Brown link on that subject: sheldonbrown.com/gear-theory.html It will explain things better than my feeble attempts. Best, John "wheelson"
|
|
|
Post by wheelson on Feb 17, 2021 22:20:24 GMT
I just went out for 19 miles in cold weather (27F) and stuck to one gear (44/21 = 57 inch gear) for the entire ride. It was a bit too low for much of the ride. I was out of the saddle but not struggling too badly on five separate hills with grades of about 7% and distances of 1/4 to 1/2 mile. I don't really like standing 200 pounds uphill on a bike with friction shifters and 50 year old drive components. That anxiety affected my uphill efficiency. I think a well built lightweight single speed in the 70 inch gear range would be just about right, and would be a good incentive to lose 20 pounds:) Brian Brian, I've been thinking about building up my Aerospace Pro as a "minimalist" geared bike, single ring up front, no more than five in the back. I'm not too keen on standing a lot on climbing, usually just for a stretching break. What I don't need is a really high gear, as 15mph is about my average flat road or trail speed. I don't think I'll ever be able to get away with a single speed, though. Have you noticed a lot of new bikes are coming with a single front ring and a 40-50ish 10spd rear cluster. A bit more chain side deflection than I like to see. Best, John "wheelson"
|
|
|
Post by wheelson on Feb 17, 2021 22:25:39 GMT
Thanks John, useful link. That makes it plain that with my 52/42 chainset I basically get one more gear at each end and the rest is all repetition! Why was this so common back in the day? Was it just to add gears assuming that crossed high-to-low, front-to-back, was a bad idea? Even with a more modern 53/39 or 50/34 chainset, there's still wasted gears. Is it better to target the sprockets' effect to interleave the chainrings' effect? Thanks, Rod Hi Rod, Gearing is an art or science unto itself - maybe a black art as you will find quite a few opinions on what's best. My best take on much of the modern stuff is that it can be viewed as a "standardization" for bike manufacturers, fewer choices for the end user. Think 170mm crank lengths for road bikes, 175mm for mountain bikes. Following calculations dug out from the internet, my wife should be riding 155's, no more than 160's, yet very short or very long cranksets are very difficult to find. Back on the subject of gearing, here's another Sheldon Brown link on that subject: sheldonbrown.com/gear-theory.html It will explain things better than my feeble attempts. Best, John "wheelson" For some reason, the link didn't copy well. Try try again. sheldonbrown.com/gear-theory.html
|
|
|
Post by franco on Feb 17, 2021 22:28:01 GMT
I know I’d struggle with a single speed. I sometimes do around 15 miles on the 3 Speed but I get rid of the Dutch gearing and fit a larger 22T sprocket on the Sturmey Archer.
I’m probably straying off topic a bit now though...
|
|
rodh
Viscount
Posts: 122
|
Post by rodh on Feb 17, 2021 22:36:26 GMT
Aha, I learnt the right terms ... "criss-cross" gears and "half-step" gearing!
Anyway, that aside, a 52/42 chainset with the original 14-16-20-24-28 freewheel gives 6 distinct ratios (the others are duplicates or criss-cross).
Change that to 14-15-16-17-18 and you get 8 ratios (no duplicates) but now the range only suits the flat.
Change everything, with a 52/44 and 14-15-16-19-23-28 and you get 8 distinct ratios and a useful range (at the expense of a double shift 5 to 6, although the duplication does allow fewer front derailleur shifts).
Mmmm, lot's to think about when you're stuck inside driving a mouse ... bring back freedom! (and summer) Cheers, Rod
|
|
robt
Viscount
Posts: 559
|
Post by robt on Feb 17, 2021 23:04:29 GMT
I'm running a 6-speed IRD Classica freewheel (14/17/20/24/28/32) on a Mavic MA2 wheel(700C) with a Miche hub. Combined with a Sugino GT chainset (50/36) this works pretty well and gives me quite reasonable uphill performance. I'm using a Suntour Cyclone MkII RD with a long cage (the "3700" or "GT" model). The IRD freewheel replaced the original one that came with the wheel (an eBay purchase) - a Regina freewheel with a rather less forgiving gearing (12/13/14/15/17/20). Dracco, You might like to hang onto your old Regina bits while you have a look at the 14/25 and 14/31 5-speed options in the (normally reasonably-priced) Bankrupt_Bike_Parts eBay listings. Someone clearly thinks that there's gold in them thar freewheels. Almost makes the IRD Classica units look like a cheap option! Glad to hear they are keeping on top of the vaccine programme in Yorkshire. Best wishes.
|
|
|
Post by oldroadietehachapi on Feb 18, 2021 1:24:23 GMT
John Wheelson wrote
"Have you noticed a lot of new bikes are coming with a single front ring and a 40-50ish 10spd rear cluster. A bit more chain side deflection than I like to see."
I am modifying one of my bikes to be a 1x9. I went with 9 speed instead of 10 as I like the idea of the stronger 9 speed chain. My setup is a Deore long cage derailleur with dropout extension, a 11-40 Cassette, a single 9 speed bar end shifter, and a single 40 tooth chainring. In a few weeks, I will report back on the result.
All the Best Jim
|
|
|
Post by wheelson on Feb 18, 2021 1:25:32 GMT
I'm running a 6-speed IRD Classica freewheel (14/17/20/24/28/32) on a Mavic MA2 wheel(700C) with a Miche hub. Combined with a Sugino GT chainset (50/36) this works pretty well and gives me quite reasonable uphill performance. I'm using a Suntour Cyclone MkII RD with a long cage (the "3700" or "GT" model). The IRD freewheel replaced the original one that came with the wheel (an eBay purchase) - a Regina freewheel with a rather less forgiving gearing (12/13/14/15/17/20). Dracco, You might like to hang onto your old Regina bits while you have a look at the 14/25 and 14/31 5-speed options in the (normally reasonably-priced) Bankrupt_Bike_Parts eBay listings. Someone clearly thinks that there's gold in them thar freewheels. Almost makes the IRD Classica units look like a cheap option! Glad to hear they are keeping on top of the vaccine programme in Yorkshire. Best wishes. You’re certainly right there, Robt. Old style freewheels are like gold. My brother-in-law was restoring the Schwinn Circuit he used to race on and paid over $100 for a NOS Suntour 6spd. Interesting concept, there’s a minister in the US that has a secondary career rebuilding freewheels, goes by the name Pastor Bob. I’m told he works miracles! Best, John “wheelson”
|
|
|
Post by velocipete on Feb 18, 2021 7:51:20 GMT
Back in the '70's I often used to ride in North Wales. Not the flattest area in the UK! I built up a Suntor Winner 5 speed freewheel with a selection of cogs suitable for that area. The cogs were all on a presentation board at the bike shop and you just picked the ones you wanted. It was a 5 speed set up with 28 and 34 as my lowest gears and a 14 as my highest. With the 52/42 chain rings it worked fine. I did some spannering on a Veterans ride one year. 100 miles starting in Mold.Most of the ride was in the hills of the area. There was a lady,in her '80's, who was riding a Stermey Archer 3 speed that her parents had bought her in the 1930's! She did the whole ride in the allotted time with no problems. So there isn't any real need for more than the 3 gears. Go for it Franco and Brian. Cheers, Pete.
|
|
|
Post by franco on Feb 18, 2021 11:18:06 GMT
I'm running a 6-speed IRD Classica freewheel (14/17/20/24/28/32) on a Mavic MA2 wheel(700C) with a Miche hub. Combined with a Sugino GT chainset (50/36) this works pretty well and gives me quite reasonable uphill performance. I'm using a Suntour Cyclone MkII RD with a long cage (the "3700" or "GT" model). The IRD freewheel replaced the original one that came with the wheel (an eBay purchase) - a Regina freewheel with a rather less forgiving gearing (12/13/14/15/17/20). Dracco, You might like to hang onto your old Regina bits while you have a look at the 14/25 and 14/31 5-speed options in the (normally reasonably-priced) Bankrupt_Bike_Parts eBay listings. Someone clearly thinks that there's gold in them thar freewheels. Almost makes the IRD Classica units look like a cheap option! Glad to hear they are keeping on top of the vaccine programme in Yorkshire. Best wishes. The old wide range freewheels on eBay are usually advertised with Eroica in my mind and expensive. The Suntour models come up every so often, I picked this Suntour 5 speed freewheel up from the LBS but not fitted it onto anything yet. 4E30BC85-45A5-4203-A19A-FF257CCB3EBF by Franco_AC, on Flickr
|
|
|
Post by franco on Feb 18, 2021 11:21:12 GMT
Back in the '70's I often used to ride in North Wales. Not the flattest area in the UK! I built up a Suntor Winner 5 speed freewheel with a selection of cogs suitable for that area. The cogs were all on a presentation board at the bike shop and you just picked the ones you wanted. It was a 5 speed set up with 28 and 34 as my lowest gears and a 14 as my highest. With the 52/42 chain rings it worked fine. I did some spannering on a Veterans ride one year. 100 miles starting in Mold.Most of the ride was in the hills of the area. There was a lady,in her '80's, who was riding a Stermey Archer 3 speed that her parents had bought her in the 1930's! She did the whole ride in the allotted time with no problems. So there isn't any real need for more than the 3 gears. Go for it Franco and Brian. Cheers, Pete. Thanks Pete. I’m going to see if I can push on with the miles on the 3 speed this summer because as you say, it’s doable. I also joined the society of three speeds and they set a few challenges every year so that should be interesting too.
|
|
|
Post by wheelson on Feb 18, 2021 16:05:52 GMT
Dracco, You might like to hang onto your old Regina bits while you have a look at the 14/25 and 14/31 5-speed options in the (normally reasonably-priced) Bankrupt_Bike_Parts eBay listings. Someone clearly thinks that there's gold in them thar freewheels. Almost makes the IRD Classica units look like a cheap option! Glad to hear they are keeping on top of the vaccine programme in Yorkshire. Best wishes. The old wide range freewheels on eBay are usually advertised with Eroica in my mind and expensive. The Suntour models come up every so often, I picked this Suntour 5 speed freewheel up from the LBS but not fitted it onto anything yet. 4E30BC85-45A5-4203-A19A-FF257CCB3EBF by Franco_AC, on Flickr That’s a nice old Suntour freewheel with a massively low gear. Fitting it to a derailleur will be interesting, depending if you want to stay period and what chain rings you’re running. A long cage Crane or Suntour Mountech would probably work. The Mountech gets a bad rap because of the upper pulley design, but if you keep it serviced and full of waterproof grease it works well. It’s the only classic long cage derailleur that I’ve found that works well on my ‘84 Schwinn Voyageur SP tourer. Best, John “wheelson”
|
|
|
Post by brianbutler on Feb 18, 2021 17:46:50 GMT
Interesting concept, there’s a minister in the US that has a secondary career rebuilding freewheels, goes by the name Pastor Bob. I’m told he works miracles! Best, John “wheelson” I'm surprised more people don't rebuild freewheels. It is actually fairly easy. The bearing races are rarely worn because there is no load on them. Usually the bearings are caked with old grease and oil, which I have found cannot be adequately cleaned using the flushing techniques you see on the web. I open them up, degrease and derust them, usually replace the balls, very lightly lubricate, and put them back together, good as new. I have never seen a broken pawl or pawl spring so it is evidently rare.
Whenever I see a cheap vinbtage bike put out at the curb or at the local dump, I check the freewheel, shifters, and derailleurs. Half the time they will be Suntour or Shimano with very little wear. I have quite a few Suntour Perfect 5 and 6 speed freewheels that I have refurbished. Just this past weekend I spotted an 80's Miyata 80 (cheap) in the scrap metal bin at the recycling center so I took it. It yielded a set of Suntour Seven derailleurs and shifters, plus a Suntour Perfect 5, all of which I will rebuild and probably use.
Brian
|
|
|
Post by wheelson on Feb 18, 2021 18:50:14 GMT
Interesting concept, there’s a minister in the US that has a secondary career rebuilding freewheels, goes by the name Pastor Bob. I’m told he works miracles! Best, John “wheelson” I'm surprised more people don't rebuild freewheels. It is actually fairly easy. The bearing races are rarely worn because there is no load on them. Usually the bearings are caked with old grease and oil, which I have found cannot be adequately cleaned using the flushing techniques you see on the web. I open them up, degrease and derust them, usually replace the balls, very lightly lubricate, and put them back together, good as new. I have never seen a broken pawl or pawl spring so it is evidently rare.
Whenever I see a cheap vinbtage bike put out at the curb or at the local dump, I check the freewheel, shifters, and derailleurs. Half the time they will be Suntour or Shimano with very little wear. I have quite a few Suntour Perfect 5 and 6 speed freewheels that I have refurbished. Just this past weekend I spotted an 80's Miyata 80 (cheap) in the scrap metal bin at the recycling center so I took it. It yielded a set of Suntour Seven derailleurs and shifters, plus a Suntour Perfect 5, all of which I will rebuild and probably use.
Brian
A gentleman on the CR list used to give demos on freewheel rebuilding at our get togethers. I’m not sure of the percentage encouraged or discouraged. I personally have a bucket full of miscellaneous freewheels. At the shop I contract with, freewheels and cassettes are usually scrapped when the chain is worn or rusty. I can see their point as it eliminates a possible comeback complaint. I, of course, always dig through the scrap buckets in search of usable vintage gems. So many newly manufactured freewheels are so much junk. Best, John “wheelson”
|
|
|
Post by franco on Feb 18, 2021 19:14:20 GMT
The old wide range freewheels on eBay are usually advertised with Eroica in my mind and expensive. The Suntour models come up every so often, I picked this Suntour 5 speed freewheel up from the LBS but not fitted it onto anything yet. 4E30BC85-45A5-4203-A19A-FF257CCB3EBF by Franco_AC, on Flickr That’s a nice old Suntour freewheel with a massively low gear. Fitting it to a derailleur will be interesting, depending if you want to stay period and what chain rings you’re running. A long cage Crane or Suntour Mountech would probably work. The Mountech gets a bad rap because of the upper pulley design, but if you keep it serviced and full of waterproof grease it works well. It’s the only classic long cage derailleur that I’ve found that works well on my ‘84 Schwinn Voyageur SP tourer. Best, John “wheelson” I know John, that’s partly why I haven’t used it yet, not keen on fitting a modern long cage RD, as it kind of partly defeats the point of having a period freewheel. But that might be the only way of using it, the Crane stuff doesn’t appear to be in abundance and it’s pricey.
|
|