6/7 speed conversion ... or stay with 5?

Thanks for the input ...
I did briefly look into the Ultra-6, but they're Ultra expensive too, so abandonned that idea

So, using a stsndard spaced 6 speed (5.5mm extra, 29.5mm overall) the list seems to be ...

1) move the axle ~3mm (& update bushings)
2) re-dish the wheel ~3mm, to keep it centered
3) accept ~3mm less chain/dropout clearance
4) chainline should be as before
5) hope derailleur will reach

... or just try it and see!

If (1) and (2) are necessary, I could combine this with the refurb of my new-to-me Mavic wheel.
(currently stalled by corroded-stuck locknuts), but I guess a flatter dish will weaken it slightly.

Ah, so many tasks, so little time ... and it seems like quite a lot of work for quite a small reward.
I need to be sure the cassette has the right sprockets before I decide - hopefully 14/28, 6 speed.

I'm running a 6-speed IRD Classica freewheel (14/17/20/24/28/32) on a Mavic MA2 wheel(700C) with a Miche hub. Combined with a Sugino GT chainset (50/36) this works pretty well and gives me quite reasonable uphill performance. I'm using a Suntour Cyclone MkII RD with a long cage (the "3700" or "GT" model). The IRD freewheel replaced the original one that came with the wheel (an eBay purchase) - a Regina freewheel with a rather less forgiving gearing (12/13/14/15/17/20).

Darn it, I just sold a couple of bikes with megarange gearing! Thanks anyway Franco,
and John: that sounds familiar! (I'm prone to tinkering; it's not just about the ride)

Thanks all (even if I didn't mention you personally).
Your input's much appreciated,
Rod

I have been experimenting with using as FEW gears as possible, partly as a fitness idea and partly because I like to test the limits of minimalism. I don't race and I am not particularly speed or time oriented, averaging about 15mph over a 20-30 mile ride on local paved roads. I often go out of my way to climb hills even though it slows me down considerably. I can usually do this using no more than three gear ratios.

This is probably heresy but I think I get a better workout with a variety of cadences and muscle loads than I do trying to maintain a narrow cadence window with lots of gears. I guess the ultimate manifestation of this would be using a single speed or fixie for road cycling. I have tried to determine what gear I would want for that type of riding. The local terrain, while not enormously hilly, seems to exceed what I can do with a single gear and without walking the bike up the occasional steep pitch. Maybe a two-speed (2 chain rings and one rear cog) would be the way to go. I will try to determine what the two gears should be by using only two gears on a ten-speed that I know can get me anywhere locally.

The mountains of New Hampshire are a different story and might always require elaborate gearing. Maybe I will see what the minimum number of gears is for that terrain as well.

Brian

I agree with Brian and Franco, many times less is better. In my experience, many bikes have a good deal of gearing overlap. Of course, this can be plotted out or use a calculator like this one: www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html

What I really need to do is pay particular attention to the gears I use when I ride a particular bike on a particular course. On a rail trail, I'm usually in a pretty narrow range, except for the hills getting to or returning from the trail. On one or two bikes, it seems I just can't find that sweet spot, and that's when I need to record what gear inch is missing. For most road or touring bikes, however, for me it's as many gears as possible.

The answer, of course, is to use this argument to justify more bikes, a purpose driven scenario. I pretty much do that already but at some point I have to scale down. That's when my "standardization" will allow me to swap wheels and other components to tweak the bike to the ride. But for now, about 10 rideable bikes do nicely!

Best,
John "wheelson"

I just went out for 19 miles in cold weather (27F) and stuck to one gear (44/21 = 57 inch gear) for the entire ride. It was a bit too low for much of the ride. I was out of the saddle but not struggling too badly on five separate hills with grades of about 7% and distances of 1/4 to 1/2 mile. I don't really like standing 200 pounds uphill on a bike with friction shifters and 50 year old drive components. That anxiety affected my uphill efficiency. I think a well built lightweight single speed in the 70 inch gear range would be just about right, and would be a good incentive to lose 20 pounds:)

Brian

Brian,

I've been thinking about building up my Aerospace Pro as a "minimalist" geared bike, single ring up front, no more than five in the back. I'm not too keen on standing a lot on climbing, usually just for a stretching break. What I don't need is a really high gear, as 15mph is about my average flat road or trail speed. I don't think I'll ever be able to get away with a single speed, though. Have you noticed a lot of new bikes are coming with a single front ring and a 40-50ish 10spd rear cluster. A bit more chain side deflection than I like to see.

Best,
John "wheelson" 

I know I’d struggle with a single speed. I sometimes do around 15 miles on the 3 Speed but I get rid of the Dutch gearing and fit a larger 22T sprocket on the Sturmey Archer.

I’m probably straying off topic a bit now though...

Dracco,

You might like to hang onto your old Regina bits while you have a look at the 14/25 and 14/31 5-speed options in the (normally reasonably-priced) Bankrupt_Bike_Parts eBay listings.

Someone clearly thinks that there's gold in them thar freewheels. Almost makes the IRD Classica units look like a cheap option!

Glad to hear they are keeping on top of the vaccine programme in Yorkshire. Best wishes.

You’re certainly right there, Robt. Old style freewheels are like gold. My brother-in-law was restoring the Schwinn Circuit he used to race on and paid over $100 for a NOS Suntour 6spd. Interesting concept, there’s a minister in the US that has a secondary career rebuilding freewheels, goes by the name Pastor Bob. I’m told he works miracles!
Best,
John “wheelson”

The old wide range freewheels on eBay are usually advertised with Eroica in my mind and expensive. The Suntour models come up every so often, I picked this Suntour 5 speed freewheel up from the LBS but not fitted it onto anything yet. 

4E30BC85-45A5-4203-A19A-FF257CCB3EBF by Franco_AC, on Flickr

That’s a nice old Suntour freewheel with a massively low gear. Fitting it to a derailleur will be interesting, depending if you want to stay period and what chain rings you’re running. A long cage Crane or Suntour Mountech would probably work. The Mountech gets a bad rap because of the upper pulley design, but if you keep it serviced and full of waterproof grease it works well. It’s the only classic long cage derailleur that I’ve found that works well on my ‘84 Schwinn Voyageur SP tourer.
Best,
John “wheelson”

A gentleman on the CR list used to give demos on freewheel rebuilding at our get togethers. I’m not sure of the percentage encouraged or discouraged. I personally have a bucket full of miscellaneous freewheels. At the shop I contract with, freewheels and cassettes are usually scrapped when the chain is worn or rusty. I can see their point as it eliminates a possible comeback complaint. I, of course, always dig through the scrap buckets in search of usable vintage gems. So many newly manufactured freewheels are so much junk.
Best,
John “wheelson”