Removing sealed bearing Bottom Bracket

When I removed the b/b bearings from my Sport, my efforts to reduce the amount of brute force required went something like:
Untitled by RMT@261, on Flickr
a. Remove circlips from axle grooves then, for each bearing;
b. Remove (tear off) the rubbery seals on the outside of bearings and wipe out the grease beneath them to expose the bearing cages 
c. Using a 2 or 2.5mm drill bit, drill out the 'ligaments' of the bearing cages between the ball bearings so that the cages fall apart in situ. Hint: it's good to have some spare drill bits available.
d. Using a pair of thin-nosed pliers, remove/tug/pull/rip the bits of bearing cage out from between the bearing races and around the balls. Things should loosen up a bit now.
e. Wiggle the axle and push the balls around between the races until they start to fall out (the first one on each side is the trickiest, the rest then follow). Some poking and prodding may be required.
f.  When all the balls have been removed from between the races, you should be able to remove the axle with the inner races still attached, leaving the outer races in the b/b shell
g. Use a hammer and drift (screwdriver, 4"+ bolt etc) though one side of the b/b to gently(?) tap around the inside of the outer race on the other side of the b/b shell until it falls out. Be careful not to allow the drift to score the inside of the b/b shell.
h. Turn the frame over and repeat as above for the other outer race.
i.  The b/b shell should now be clear (except for the tube spigots, which might get in the way of a threadless b/b, in which case see rmw's advice on having her b/b shell reamed out & threaded to take a conventional sealed unit b/b):
Untitled by RMT@261, on Flickr
j. Place axle loosely in a bench vice, resting vertically on one of the inner races. Screw axle nut into threaded hole in square taper, then gently(?) tap the axle nut until the axle falls out of the inner race and the vice. (Hint:Soaking the axle/race interface for a couple of days with a penetrating oil such as Plus-Gas may be useful if the race doesn't move at the first attempt.)
k. Pick axle up off the floor, replace in vice the other way up and repeat as j above.
l.  Remove stem and forks from frame
Untitled by RMT@261, on Flickr
m. Tidy up collection of debris.
Untitled by RMT@261, on Flickr
n. Wash hands and apply band-aid/sticking plasters to injured body parts.
o. Send the frame away to be resprayed
Untitled by RMT@261, on Flickr
p. Store the frame under a sheet for 12 months, waiting for the right time to put it all back together again.
 

Thanks Sooper & Robt:

I carefully considered both of your experiences. I removed the two clips (not easy) and the bearing covers. Before I started drilling, I put the frame in my repair vise, supported the frame
and gave the axle a modest tap with a wooden mallet. It budged....and with the second tap came flying out along with the bearing! Used an old alloy seat post to tap out the other bearing.

Once I found the right grinding stone, it was short work to grind down the protruding tubes inside the BB. Popped in the YST thread less assembly & I'm good to go.

I now have an axle, clips & chrome bolts. I'll add a new set of bearings and see how it goes on eBay.

At that point, I cleaned up and poured a couple of pints of my Best Bitter to celebrate. Cheers!

Thanks for the reminder re: Loctite.  It was recommended in the instructions for my Velo Orange BB, but not for the YST.

Did you use a tapered type of BB?  I'm wondering if others using a tapered type beveled the edges of the BB for a more secure fit.

I didn't have a second tool, but found the pins on a standard BB tool fit nicely into the notches and held the side in place while tightening.

I'll be using a 175mm NOS Specialized crankset that has been hanging in my work area for a couple of years.

I assume you’ve been able to cut out the ends of the seat-tube, downtube and chain stays that are visible in the bottom bracket shell. I used a fretsaw and a Dremel tool to make space for the cartridge b/b to fit into the shell, then painted the cut tube ends to provide some corrosion control.

As part of that, I rubbed down the b/b shell bearing faces with some fine wet & dry sandpaper, just to the point that the faces felt smooth to my fingers. The threadless bottom brackets that I used have a slight taper on the bearing faces to assist centring. It’s worth remembering that you will need two of the splined b/b tools to fit the threadless unit.

Good luck!