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Post by lighthousejim on Jul 19, 2020 8:55:58 GMT
Hi all, Not sure whether this should be here or the technical section, but here goes. I used my wife's Deore 18AX to take our glass down to the bottle bank yesterday with two panniers on the Showa rack. For the most part I was really pleased with how smoothly the bike rides but I noticed that over a couple of bumps I could feel the rear rack swaying. It seems that there is lateral movement where the rack is supported near the rear brake bridge - about quarter of an inch side-to-side. Has anyone else seen this? I know Sooper8 has the same type of rack on one of his Deores. I could just try and crimp up the joint where the bracket wraps around the rack frame, but if there's a more elegant solution, I'd prefer that. There's a pic of the offending area here - share.icloud.com/photos/064Pwah8DyJHyuS-nt6HfeT_AThanks for any help, Jim |
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Post by wheelson on Jul 19, 2020 13:49:56 GMT
Jim,
Not sure how you can eliminate the sway, that single point anchor is always difficult to firm up. As you say, you can crimp or place bushings around the crimp area. The bracket down to the brake bolt will flex somewhat as well, perhaps a heavier gauge bracket? The only other thing I can think of is a modified clamp around the seat stays and that always endangers the paint.
Best,
John "wheelson" Wilson
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Post by brianbutler on Jul 19, 2020 13:54:05 GMT
If you have access to the inside if the joint where the bracket wraps (maybe by removing the screws and bottom part of the bracket, can't tell by the photo), wrap electrical tape around the tube and reattach the bracket. If the bracket is closed around the tube, you could drill a hole through both and insert a close fitting split pin. However, this would make the rack angle specific to this bike. You could also place pins through the tube adjacent to the edges of the bracket, which is more work but less specific.
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Post by wheelson on Jul 19, 2020 17:17:35 GMT
Brian's mention of drilling and a split pin is a good plan. I did this on my Schwinn Voyageur SP which has an original model Blackburn. It had the two rail mounting to the seat stays but the round mounting rods were too short and I was unable to level the rack. I cut the rods, cut two spare ones from a newer style rack, and spliced them with an aluminum dual hole splice that is used to form a loop in a steel cable. I then drilled the splice and locked it with the locking pin. www.garagedoorstuff.com/product/532%E2%80%B3-aluminum-cable-crimps-splicing-sleeves/Best, John "wheelson" |
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Post by lighthousejim on Jul 19, 2020 17:18:26 GMT
Thank you both. I'll probably drill and pin the clamp where it wraps around the rack bar. It's the original rack for the bike, so making it specific isn't a problem. It's strange, because the rest of the rack seems extremely well engineered, but that joint seems to be a flawed design. I might try and drill and tap for a grub screw, but as the bracket wraps right around and can't be dismantled, I might have to go right through both.
Cheers,
Jim
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Post by wheelson on Jul 19, 2020 17:26:18 GMT
If you use the locking pin, you may not have to drill through the center of the clamp and rod, just enough to lock it. That's what I did with the splice I mentioned above. By drilling in the "V", I was able lock both rods into the splice with just one pin.
A different application, I know, but concept-wise you should be able to do it without removing anything. Just be careful to match the pin and drill sizes to get a press fit.
Best,
John "wheelson"
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Post by franco on Jul 19, 2020 21:55:58 GMT
I’d probably drill it through and use a pin or small bolt as well, especially if you are carrying heavy loads. Tapping it for a grub screw would be the ideal solution as you suggest.
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Jem
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Post by Jem on Jul 20, 2020 9:28:40 GMT
Hi Jim, I haven't experienced much, if any, sway, but not sure if I have had the same weight on it you had with bottles etc (although , I have had panniers full and bag on top with camping gear). Mine seems to have a different kind of attachment through the frame, could be firmer material ? - see pic Sorry I can't say much more than that EDIT- and mine seems nearer to the anchor point than yours, so inherently more secure, less to wobble? and with it being closer, maybe the angle of the flat part of the rack is slightly more sloped from back to front than yours?  IMG_3542 by |
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