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Post by franco on Apr 27, 2020 22:02:07 GMT
I know this forum is based on vintage bikes with traditional drop bars, but what are people’s preferences and why? Anyone modified anything to suit their riding position? Personally I like North Road handlebars, I like to take in scenery and not too bothered about being aero or breaking the next Strava record. Tried butterfly’s, they offer a lot of hand positions but look weird imo. Bullhorns/TT are quite nice, no rise though. Started to look at drop bar modifications, I ride on the hoods most of the time so the drops are redundant. Thinking of trying reverse bullhorns which is basically a cut down drop bar. Anyone tried this? Some kind of variation on this
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Post by franco on Apr 27, 2020 22:05:45 GMT
Another example
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Post by brianbutler on Apr 29, 2020 12:07:45 GMT
Interesting food for thought. All my bikes have drop bars but these days I am never on the drops, usually on the hoods. What I like about that position is that weight is shared between hands and bottom, and lower wind resistance. What I don't like is the early season sore neck and awkward braking. I used to think I didn't like straight bars like the ones on modern hybrids because there was just one hand position but I basically use only one hand position with the drop bars, so that can't be it. Maybe I just don't like the look or maybe there really is something odd about the hand position.
I like the cutoff bars in the photos you included, particularly the ones on the Nishiki mixte. Very cool. Not too keen on the brake lever position, though. It implies riding with hands on the short straight section. It might be best to start with optimal brake lever and hand position and design a bar that accommodates it. Either that or completely rethink braking. How about twister-brakes instead of levers?
Brian
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Post by brianbutler on Apr 29, 2020 12:13:30 GMT
I am now considering other uses for the drops since I don't use them for steering. They might be a good place for accessories like bottle cages, mirrors, lights, etc. Also, I really like the idea of an accessory rack I've seen that attaches to the bar and creates another rail in front of it.
Brian
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Post by franco on Apr 29, 2020 13:15:03 GMT
Similar here Brian. I rarely go into the drops, but then with vintage brake lever positioning it’s difficult to ride on the hoods with quick access to the levers. My modern Trek is completely different, I can efficiently brake from the hoods with two fingers, but modern aero levers don’t look good on a vintage set up imo. I’d like to get the suicide levers working better on the vintage bikes as that would solve a lot. Currently tinkering with that. There is the option of small levers on the flat section like what some Time Trial cyclists use but don’t think they would look aesthetically right on drop bars. Let’s be honest, a big part of why we like these bikes is because how they look!
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Post by cusqueno on Apr 29, 2020 14:17:33 GMT
This is my Viscount Corsair Wayfarer mixte. It originally had drop bars but I put these bars on, with bar-mounted SIS shifters, because I thought my wife might prefer it to her lady's Raleigh, because the Viscount is rather lighter although not an Aerospace model. But she prefers to stick with the Raleigh, so I'll probably eventually change it back. I have some Dura Ace First Gen brake levers with suicide levers that I will fit, to match the DA centre pull brakes I fitted. I've been using this bike all winter - up to the lockdown - to ride to work. It's quite a good feeling at first, sailing along higher up than normal, but even over my 25 minute commute the position becomes a bit uncomfortable and I feel that I do not get as much power from my legs in the upright position. The position of my hands isn't too bad though. I usually ride my other bikes on the drops mainly and I subscribe to the theory that one's hands / wrists are most comfortable if they are at the same angle they would be at when you are hold them out to shake hands with someone. Current bikes by ShouldbeCusquenobutF**krwontletmeintomyproperaccou, on Flickr
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Post by cusqueno on Apr 29, 2020 14:35:17 GMT
Here's a long-delayed project - what if Viscount was still going in 1983 and produced a mountain bike? The frame is a gold gent's Corsair Wayfarer. I have all the bits now and what remains is to make a pair of 26" wheels. I kept buying the wrong size spokes. The wheels shown are 700c. I have replacement forks. So what do you think about the bars - too long but where to cut them? You can see there is a bit of a gold theme going here. Drive train, derailleurs and pedals will be first gen Deore. Current bikes by ShouldbeCusquenobutF**krwontletmeintomyproperaccou, on Flickr
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Post by franco on Apr 29, 2020 15:35:02 GMT
That’s a good point Cusqueno about natural hand position and probably why I get on with the North Road bars. I read an article saying your hand position should ideally be as they are if you stand relaxed with your hands by your sides. So in the drops or swept back bars are in theory the most natural for your wrists/hands.
A few interesting projects there. The Corsair looks like a Gravel Bike project, I did that with a old Raleigh Eclipse last summer, fitted 700c x 30 Schwalbe cyclocross tyres on it and used it on country trails. I think the MTB bars definitely need cutting down but I’m not sure where either. What width are they? They look huge but that might just be the camera angle.
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Post by cusqueno on Apr 29, 2020 16:15:05 GMT
I think the MTB bars definitely need cutting down but I’m not sure where either. What width are they? They look huge but that might just be the camera angle. The bars are long - about 88cm. I think they might have been intended for some sort of motor bike.
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Jem
Viscount
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Posts: 3,391
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Post by Jem on Apr 29, 2020 17:09:08 GMT
My son rode reverse cut down drop bars. He liked them... Camera Roll-668 by Sooper 8, on Flickr On my shopping bike, I have these relaxed ones and really enjoy them. Not sure why I even bother with drop bars? Hahah Deore utility by Sooper 8, on Flickr
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Jem
Viscount
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Posts: 3,391
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Post by Jem on Apr 29, 2020 17:12:46 GMT
Some kind of variation on this Is that a Nishiki Franco? I like the look of that a lot! I love the frame lines and the colour - I also like the lever positioning. Very cool
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Post by franco on Apr 29, 2020 18:36:20 GMT
Some kind of variation on this Is that a Nishiki Franco? I like the look of that a lot! I love the frame lines and the colour - I also like the lever positioning. Very cool Yes, cool isn’t it, not mine though might I add. Your sons bike is a Fixie isn’t it? Bullhorns seem to be popular with Fixie riders. Ive got some on my Raleigh Kellogg’s Pro Tour
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Jem
Viscount
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Posts: 3,391
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Post by Jem on Apr 29, 2020 18:55:33 GMT
Yeah he was in London for 5 years, so not many hills around there, and it seemed like the fashion at the time.
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Post by cusqueno on Apr 30, 2020 13:05:22 GMT
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Post by seanick on May 12, 2020 15:37:20 GMT
Interesting you chaps don't use the drops any more. Traditionally the drop was quite large, but new drops offer a 'compact' drop, of about 125mm. I have fitted some to my TCR and can now stay on the drops all day. My Aerosport is reasonably comfortable too. Those bull horns look like 1930's roadster bars, just flipped over. N
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Post by franco on May 12, 2020 16:44:37 GMT
Interesting you chaps don't use the drops any more. Traditionally the drop was quite large, but new drops offer a 'compact' drop, of about 125mm. I have fitted some to my TCR and can now stay on the drops all day. My Aerosport is reasonably comfortable too. Those bull horns look like 1930's roadster bars, just flipped over. N I think years of plastering have made my back stiff and going into the drops just doesn’t feel right. Good that you found something more comfy. The flipped roadster bars look good on the old Path Racer bikes. modern interpretation...
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Post by franco on Dec 1, 2020 22:32:17 GMT
Any thoughts or has anyone tried some of the newer designs like Jones H Loop bars or Velo Orange Crazy Bars?
They seem to be getting popular with touring cyclists. Pricey but interesting, they look to me like a variation on old school swept back Northroad bars with add one for extra hand positions or room for accessories.
A quick video on the Jones bars...
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Post by brianbutler on Dec 2, 2020 0:41:21 GMT
I don't know, Franco. Those bars seem quite limited. I don't see any space for a guitar stand or microwave oven.
Brian
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Post by oldroadietehachapi on Dec 2, 2020 1:05:03 GMT
A worthy subject. I very much like the Rando bars by Nitto and Velo Orange. They offer a variety of positions and I can move to the drops when fighting headwinds. I combine them with a tall stem. I can move the bars up high when my neck is stiff (like in the picture of my PX10 below) and low when I need the aero benefits. I only have to carry one little Allen wrench to make the change while on a ride.
Cheers Jim
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Post by brianbutler on Dec 2, 2020 2:31:37 GMT
I agree, Jim. I inherited (almost literally) four Nitto B132 bars a few years ago. They were still in the wrappers with stickers from Harris Cyclery, the nearby bike shop famous as Sheldon Brown's home base. I have one on my Viscount Sebring and was thinking today during a ride how much I like it. The two Motobecane Grand Touring bikes I recently acquired have Pivo bars with a very similar curve but slightly narrower width.
Brian
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ks1u
Viscount
Posts: 76
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Post by ks1u on Dec 2, 2020 2:51:04 GMT
Like most American kids born in the 40s and 50s, I grew up on the standard balloon tire bikes and then the 3-speed Dunelt with a similar upright riding position. When I started riding 10 speeds I just adopted the standard drop bar but never really liked it much. It was only when I began competing in triathlons that I discovered and loved the aero position and either flat bars with end bars or bullhorn bars. I do like to view the scenery, but I also pay attention to my position in the Strava segments and really believe that interval training will help keep me young. I can still get my heart rate up to 180 and it's normally in the aero position or climbing out of the saddle and holding onto bullhorns.
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Post by wheelson on Dec 2, 2020 4:42:00 GMT
I agree, Jim. I inherited (almost literally) four Nitto B132 bars a few years ago. They were still in the wrappers with stickers from Harris Cyclery, the nearby bike shop famous as Sheldon Brown's home base. I have one on my Viscount Sebring and was thinking today during a ride how much I like it. The two Motobecane Grand Touring bikes I recently acquired have Pivo bars with a very similar curve but slightly narrower width. Brian There are several classic bars with a similar profile. One appeared on the '70s Schwinn Super Sports, I believe these were GB's. Also, another on the LeTour's. These were likely Nitto's. The latter had a bit less drop. I like the fact that these rando bends give forearm clearance when riding on the drops, also useful if you're using bar end shifters.
Best, John "wheelson"
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Post by franco on Dec 2, 2020 7:13:33 GMT
I don't know, Franco. Those bars seem quite limited. I don't see any space for a guitar stand or microwave oven. Brian Butterfly bars have Id like to try some Rando bars, maybe with a more shallow drop to encourage going into the drops more.
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Post by dracco on Dec 3, 2020 19:44:44 GMT
I like Randonneur bars. Much preferable to the Maes bend drops. Mine are SR Road Champions.
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Post by brianbutler on Dec 19, 2020 14:54:06 GMT
I am seeking artistic advice on wrapping some Pivo randonneur bars on the Motobecane Grand Touring that I have started to put back together. I plan to try something new (to me), shellacked cloth tape. I have a lot of supplies from a chair caning hobby, so I plan to bind the top of the tape with narrow rattan. The problem I am having is with the placement of the tape/binder relative to the Pivo logos on the bars. As you can see from the photo, the logos are fairly wide and spaced pretty far from the stem. My normal ending point for bar tape would cover part of the logo and I'm not sure that would be best. My choices are:
1. Cover part of the logo and end the binder about two inches from the stem. 2. End the binder the same distance from the edge of the logo as the inside edge of the logo is from the stem. 3. End the binder outside the logo but closer than the inside distance.
Let me know what you think.
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Post by wheelson on Dec 19, 2020 15:11:45 GMT
Brian, If it were me, I'd let the full logos show. I generally cover them if they are scratched up or not well defined. Even though I generally ride with my hands in this area or on the hoods, I always wear padded gloves so it doesn't make that much difference. But that's just me. I do like the look of shellacked bar tape although I've yet to do one.
Interesting that you mention chair caning. I'm getting ready to redo a rocker bottom, technically a rush weaving. We bought this chair from Woody's Chair Shop in Spruce Pine, NC (not too far from my hometown of Asheville) back in 1976 with wedding gift money. Woody's is a third or fourth generation furniture builder and uses no screws or nails in the chairs they build in their tiny shop. They built kid sized rockers for John Jr. and Caroline Kennedy to match JFK's and they also have chairs in the Smithsonian. Needless to say, I'm studying the how-to-do-it sheet with the rush rebuild kit as this is my first attempt. Best, John "wheelson"
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Post by oldroadietehachapi on Dec 19, 2020 15:45:47 GMT
I have never tried shellacked cotton tape; but may try it one day. I think it looks great, especially when the ends are trimmed with handlebar twine. Please post your progress.
I agree with John on the logos.
Cheers Jim
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Post by brianbutler on Dec 19, 2020 16:01:43 GMT
Haven't done a rush seat, just rattan caning. I got interested in it because we have an antique dining room table with 8 caned chairs that needed re-caning. When I found the cost was about $150 each, I decided to figure it out myself, then of course it became an obsession. I caned the 8 chairs and about a dozen more, then moved on to rocking chairs to try some interesting patterns on the back where the strength is not as important as on the seats. On seats you pretty much have to use the standard honeycomb pattern for durability. I did up an antique Lincoln rocker for us, each of my three daughters, and a lake house belonging to one of my daughters' and her husband. Here is one of the rockers, with regular seat and "daisies and buttons" on the back. Had to stop before the chairs starting taking over bike space.
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ks1u
Viscount
Posts: 76
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Post by ks1u on Dec 19, 2020 16:05:19 GMT
Brian: As much as I appreciate aesthetics, I always try to prioritize decisions like the one you're facing based on rider comfort. I've lost count of the number of times I tried something that I thought looked really cool and then decided after use, it just wasn't right performance-wise. It's a nice bike, it will look good regardless of your choice.
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Post by brianbutler on Dec 19, 2020 16:06:04 GMT
Thanks John and Jim for your advice. I am looking forward to seeing how this turns out. I do like the twine binder. I think the thin rattan might look even better but it will be finicky to work with because it is a flat strip. If I can't get it to work, I'll use twine, a beautiful fallback.
Brian
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