|
|
Post by cusqueno on May 15, 2020 8:02:26 GMT
Not sure if this is relevant or even correct, but I have heard that production threaded forks have the thread rolled on, rather that cut with a die. This is how spokes are threaded and is supposed to be stronger than when threads are cut. Presumably because the micro crystalline structure is better after rolling. However, most people cut threads on steerers when needed, including me. However, when I asked my LBS to extend the threading on a fork, they got someone to cut a section off the steerer and weld on a bit from another fork. So a possible approach if you know a good welder.
|
|
|
|
Post by triitout on May 15, 2020 14:30:01 GMT
I just sent the question about using replacement forks to our good friends at Velo-Orange. I hope we get a response and am curious about getting some facts about the differences of construction as per Cusqueno. To:info@velo-orange.com Details I'm confused about using replacement threaded road bike forks with a quill stem. I've been told that the quill stem expander must be within the uncut section of the steerer tube due to weakness in the cut, threaded section. If that's the case, why do you often see even from major companies like Tange, 250mm steerers with 120mm of thread? Why make something that long if you can't have the quill expander end inside the threaded section? I've also heard that these replacement forks maybe have the thread rolled on as opposed to cutting. I hope you can shed some light on this. Ironically myself and some members of our Viscount forum are replacing our "Death Forks" with what we hope is a safer way to go. Have we just made it a different hazard? viscountandlambert.boards.net/thread/1772/fork-swap-soliciting-opinionsStay safe and healthy, Cheers, Michael Pitzer |
|
|
|
Post by wheelson on May 15, 2020 14:32:41 GMT
The rolling part is generally correct, especially with spokes. There's always a lot of talk about this on some other bike forums. Some frame builders suggest adding threads with a single point cutter in a lathe. Many also speak of adding a section by welding. This would especially be proper for a classic fork for which the paint or chroming would be damaged if the entire steerer column were replaced.
Best,
John "wheelson" Wilson
|
|
|
|
Post by triitout on May 15, 2020 16:21:43 GMT
I received a quick reply from Velo-Orange. They have not heard of a breakage issue but still there are unanswered questions about fabrication.
Hi Michael,
I had not heard of this issue before. Mind you, with our threaded forks, the forks are cut to length for each size and are only threaded downward about 4 cm or so.
We don't sell threaded replacement forks for general use, (the only forks we sell on our site are unthreaded Piolet MTB style forks) so I really don't know about these issues. With our Polyvalent or Campeur frames, which use a threaded 1 inch fork, we've never heard of an issue with the steerer tube breaking or cracking.
As to why Tange would thread it so much, I suppose that is a question for them. My guess is that it gives them a larger range of frames it can fit on, as many shops do not have the dies/taps to do new threading, thus it is easier to cut down a threaded fork to fit.
Best
Scott Gater
|
|
|
|
Post by craig on May 16, 2020 0:15:17 GMT
To solve the issue of the stem expanding in the threaded area, I replaced my original stem with this one that is 180mm long www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AO5IP8Also, the steerer tube of my FK0024 was plated and the plating at the threaded end needed to be sanded slightly for the headset nuts to fit. |
|
|
|
Post by craig on May 17, 2020 14:43:59 GMT
The FK0024 that I received had a chrome plated steerer tube. The thread had to be lightly sanded for the nuts to fit. I used a 180mm long quill that I found on Amazon described as: "SUNLITE Adjustable Quill Stem" for $22
|
|
