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Post by lewisg on Mar 26, 2017 21:30:40 GMT
The headset on my Sport constantly needs tightening. I don't mind this mucb but it obviously isnt the safest. Headset is fully threaded without any notch for a lockring. There is room for a standard spacer but would it make any difference? Is cutting a notch the only way?
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Post by oldroadietehachapi on Mar 27, 2017 6:07:35 GMT
A notched spacer is designed to help prevent the top nut from loosening; but not all forks have them. A drop of Locktite thread locker on the top nut is very easy and works well. Only use products designed for thread locking; don't use epoxy or a strong adhesive; if you do, one day you will have to cut the fork off.
All the Best
Jim
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Post by lewisg on Mar 27, 2017 6:42:59 GMT
Thanks Jim, I'll look into it!
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Post by Stella on Apr 9, 2017 19:59:56 GMT
I got the same problem with my Sport. Need to service it anyway, and will then use either Locktite or linseed oil (my choice of threadlock when building wheels)
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Post by eaglerock on Feb 18, 2018 10:01:00 GMT
Another datapoint:
I just got the Generation 1 death fork off my Lambert Professional Grand Prix today (unfortunately, the original stem had corroded into the steerer, so the only way to get it off was to hacksaw through the stem), so I was finally able to disassemble the headset. Turns out it's a loose-ball no-name British thread, flattish cups with knurled edges, similar to inexpensive French headsets from the 60s-early 70s. Similarly, the lock washer and QR cable hanger both have flat edges to match a flattened area filed into the rear of the steerer threads. It's the only time I've seen the French-style lock washer on a British threaded steerer, although I have a friend who says he has the same thing on an early 70s Jack Taylor.
I had a vague impression that Lambert used a sealed bearing headset, since all the other bearings (bottom bracket, hubset, pedals) were sealed bearing. But I'm not sure I've ever seen that printed in a spec sheet. Does anyone know what the range of OEM headsets on Lamberts has been?
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Post by blackwizard on Feb 19, 2018 6:12:05 GMT
Had exactly the same on mine, loose bearings in the head and sealed for the hubs and B.B., all of which are off the shelf and relatively inexpensive. Just reassembled my headset last week with new bearings and grease, now a smooth as silk 🤗 Working on a Lambert does require some thought process, it’s not like a normal bike but then isn’t that part of the fun?  ? |
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Post by eaglerock on Feb 21, 2018 1:18:27 GMT
And another datapoint:
In an attempt to size up the steerer of a NOS Tange 90L fork* in my head tube, I tightened the threaded top cup, which pulled the upper race right out of the head tube! This alarmed me enough to look up headset installation in Sutherland's 4th Edition, to make sure that headsets are supposed to have a tight friction fit in the head tube. (yes, they are).
After examining the lower cup, I found that pulled right out of the head tube, too. A little thought brought me to this idea: The headset that was installed on the Professional Grand Prix when I got it is JIS (27mm crown race, 30mm press race diameter), while the original headset must have been ISO (26.4/26.5 crown race, 30.2 press race diameter). Some previous owner put this mis-sized headset on ("hey, it fits") and didn't pay attention to the details. This may also explain why I couldn't get the stem out of the steerer: The headset cups swiveled in the head tube along with the handlebars, making it impossible to get any torque on the stem/steerer interface.
So a new ISO headset is in order; my thinking is an NJS Tange Levin, with the inscribed flat faces on the cups. But what was the original headset? Was it Lambert branded? Does anyone have a known-original Lambert headset for which they could post photos?
*a 27" version, which is clearly too long for this frame. I can just barely reach the brake tracks with a Dia-Compe 750.
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Post by blackwizard on Feb 22, 2018 3:10:12 GMT
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Post by eaglerock on Feb 22, 2018 5:21:11 GMT
Hmmm. The flattish cups with the knurled edges look a lot like mine. Did you have to use a tool to get them out of the head tube?
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Post by blackwizard on Feb 22, 2018 5:39:36 GMT
I didn’t need special tools, they were tight but easily removed by using a plumbers wrench and some old inner tube as padding. Once I had got them moving which in fairness was due to over 40 year of grime they could be removed or inserted by hand. However once repainted and there was some paint around the headset opening they needed more help to be replaced and for that I used a rubber hammer to start the cup on its way then a headset press bought from E Bay for around £9 and his did the job perfectly. You can get removal tools though and thankfully I didn’t need one although did for the hub bearings which again was relatively inexpensive off the Bay. Below are two images off the rebuilt head as it is now, they are running very freely using new bearings and grease with the top nut tightened enough to remove any play. flic.kr/p/EUTG84flic.kr/p/23ufVsu |
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